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When I woke up in our air b&b in Pontremoli, I had a bit of a shock. The bedroom was empty. Did I oversleep? Luckily not! Cindy was the first one up and Charlotte was sleeping on the couch because she had too warm in the bedroom. Sadly, it was time to say goodbye. I will miss my amazing walking buddies. Cindy made breakfast and Charlotte had folded my clothes. What a great goodbye present. The girls had to catch an early train. Around 7h15, we gave each other a hug and off they went. The apartment suddenly felt really empty. I took the time to pack my backpack and then it was time for me to hit the road. Today, I had 32km to walk with still more than 1500 altimeters. Surprisingly, it was not too warm when I started. Via the road, it would only take 22km to reach Aulla, but we all know it's not nice and dangerous. So the Via Francigena tries to avoid the road as much as possible. First on the left via the ancient suburb Santissima Annunziata, then on the right via a couple of ugly warehouses. The third time I left the highway, it was to reach the village of Ponticello. This is a partly restored medieval village and it looks like it comes straight out of a movie. There also is an annual medieval festival here, but that was last week. Today, there was only rubbish collection day. The church was open and has a small dome. I continued on a grassy path under the trees. Suddenly, I saw a lot of movement in the grass. A big snake was trying to catch a mouse. I disturbed the whole hunt, the mouse got away and the snake made an angry move towards me. It all happened in a matter of seconds. I jumped to the side and the snake calmed down. I even had the chance to take a picture, but this was a scary experience I will remember for a long time. The path followed the valley of the Magra river. Walking flat in the shade of the trees, I made good progress. Around 11h, I already arrived in Filattiera. There is a medieval church here mainly built with stones from the river. Very impressive! I took a first break on a bench next to the church. But there was still a long way to go. There is also Filattiera alto, an old village on a steep hill. The climb was not too long, but it made me sweat anyway. By now, it was above 35 degrees in the shade and no clouds were coming. At the old entrance gate, an old man started talking to me. He spends the summers here, the winters in Milano. He showed me a small hole in the old defence wall. Through the hole, you could see the valley. I felt like a medieval knight on the lookout. The path continued through the forest and after a very steep climb, I arrived in Filetto. Under the porch of the church, I had lunch. By now, my water bag was empty and I still had to walk 15km. As if they knew, there was a water dispenser on the square. Only 5 eurocents for 1l of cool water. This saved my life. Filetto is another well preserved medieval village. On this hot saterday afternoon, there was nobody to be seen on the cobblestone streets. Only 2km further, Virgoletta, another medieval village. This one still looks like a castle on the hill. By now, I had already walked more than 20km, but the toughest part was yet to come: Monte Alin. With 282m, this is not Mount Everest but the climb was still hard work. For kilometers, I would stay in the forest. Because of the trees, there was not even a view at the top. But there was a nice rest area in a field full of wild flowers. After a break around 18h, it was time to start the descent into Aulla. No idea where they suddenly came from, but it seemed like all the mosquitos of the forest had signed an agreement to annoy me as much as possible. Even with insect repellent, they kept coming. I tried to ignore them and enjoyed the forest as much as possible. I saw two bees fighting, a squirrel in a tree and another little snake on the path. Stages of more than 30km always feel too long in the end and this one did too. By the time I arrived in Terrarossa with its imposing castle, I was tired. But I was in time for the supermarket. At the checkout counter, a lady was saying how hot it was. According to her, it was impossible to do something outside. Well, I proved her wrong. From here, a cycle path next to the main road takes you over the river into the city. Aulla didn't make a good first impression. Lots of sad apartment blocks, factories and crazy drivers. A lady stopped to let me cross the road, the car from behind simply overtook while I was crossing. He could have easily killed me. I went straight to the safety of my B&B where I arrived around 20h30. It's called bed and bike. But you don't have a bike, I hear you think. Yes, but the name comes from the bicycle shop on the ground floor. Elizabetta gave me a warm welcome. She couldn't speak english, but I start to understand some Italian. My room was a bit more expensive than usual, but very luxurious inclusive relax chair, rain shower and airco. Little present to myself. My legs are a bit irritated because of all the sweating. I will have to keep an eye on that. Tomorrow, there is only 17km to walk. It won't be easy because there is a mountain to conquer. This is described as the last mountainous stage of the Via Francigena. Tomorrow, I might see the mediterranean sea for the first time on my journey. Another milestone!
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Rest day in Pontremoli and rest is exactly what we needed after our long exhausting walk yesterday. Our air b&b apartment was the perfect place. Charlotte forgot to turn off the alarm on her phone, so we got some early morning music. It didn't keep us from sleeping until after 10h. Except for Cindy. She was the early bird. By the time Charlotte and I got up, she had already been to the shop for breakfast. What an angel! Our clothes were full of sweat and dust. Luckily, the apartment has a washing machine. Drying is a tricky operation, because the drying rack hangs out off the window on the second floor. Drop something and you might never get it back. Charlotte pranked me by saying my clothes had fallen. She kept her best jokes for last. Our legs were very happy with laying down and our skin thanked us for staying out of the sun. It was again more than 30 degrees. I took the time to book my accommodation for the next week, Cindy was brave and went for a walk, Charlotte was even braver and tested the tv. Around 15h, we went to the local supermarket Eurospin to buy some food. On every rest day, I check my fundraising for Make a Wish. It always makes me happy. Thank you again and again for the support. We have almost raised the amount I dreamed off beforehand. It will allow Make a Wish to make another special dream of a child with a life threatening illness come true. Would you also still like to help? That's fantastic! Lots of hands make lots of things possible. Check the website https://www.inactievoormakeawish.be/fund.../dimitri-lanssens Pontremoli is a beautiful medieval city. Leaving without taking the time to visit would be a shame. Especially today, because it was the annual Medievalis festival. Then the whole town comes to life with medieval shows, markets, food and so much more. Around 16h, we headed for the center. First we went to the tourist office for our pilgrim stamp. It was a really nice one with a print of the labyrinth which can be found in a sandstone slab in the church of St Peter. Then there were some things we really wanted to do. I had to withdraw cash, check. Cindy wanted to visit a bookstore, check. Charlotte wanted to drink aperol, check. It was great to wander around the narrow streets. At the highest point, there is a castle. We didn't visit because of our tired legs and the entrance fee. Instead, we visited the cathedral and watched a medieval concert in the square in front. Lots of people were dressed as in medieval times. We couldn't resist a nice gelateria. Before we knew, it was time for dinner. Not easy to find a good place, but in the end we had amazing food in a park under some cosy lights. When we walked home around 21h, a lady was playing harp in the streets. The festival would continue until late, but we have to get up early tomorrow. Cindy and Charlotte will walk to the left and go to the railway station. I will walk to the right and start the 32km hike to Aulla on my own. I feel sad the girls have to leave. I couldn't have wished for better hiking buddies. But I will continue, Rome is waiting for me! Yesterday morning, we woke up extra early in B&B Gioli in Berceto. For the first time since long, it had not been hot in the room. We slept at an altitude of 810m. Our alarms were set at 6h. We had to tackle one of the toughest stages of the Via Francigena. We were going to climb up and over the Cisa Pass into Tuscany. This involved climbing 1270m and descending another 1833m spread over 28km. Not a challenge we could handle without breakfast. Luckily, our host had prepared everything for 7h. We realised the B&B was very small with only 2 rooms. Breakfast was served in the living room of the owners with an amazing view over the valley. The friendly man waved us goodbye when we left. In the center of Berceto, it was surprisingly busy. People were enjoying the fresh mountain air and a good coffee. The church was open. It was pretty dark inside. Hidden in the corner, there was even a little museum free to visit. Time for some action. And the path would test us from the beginning. The first 6km involved a steep climb to the summit of Monte Valoria. Most of the uphill was done in the shade of trees. We kept a good pace. The climb asked a lot of energy, so there was not enough breath for long conversations. At the top of this high bald mountain, we were rewarded with 360° views. We dropped our backpacks and took lots of pictures around the monument and the mile marker. Down below, we could see little villages and the highway disappearing into a tunnel. When we continued, we followed a ridge for 2km to the famous Cisa Pass. Charlotte thought it was named after her and Cindy: CIndy SArlotte = CISA. Here you come to a road, so suddenly it's busy. There were probably around 30 motorcycles parked here and luxury porsches and lamborghinis drove past. This pass is very scenic and part of different popular roadtrips. There are two bars here. We found a bench in the shade for lunch and ordered fresh drinks. Afterwards, we scored a stamp in our passport, took a picture at the sign, bought a souvenir and visited the little church with beautiful glass windows. When you are around, skip the tunnel and drive over the pass, it is worth it. We almost felt like tourists. But we still had lots of work to do. We were still 20km from our destination Pontremoli. Behind the church, we left the region of Emilia Romagna and entered Tuscany. Here we heard thunder for the first time. The forecasted storms were on their way. Would they miss us again? The first part followed a descending path through a beautiful forest. We covered a good distance the first hour and kept each other entertained by playing word games. Later, it was time to climb again to an obelisk on top of a mountain at 994m. From here, we had a stunning view over the mountains and valleys around. But we also saw something else: a big thunderstorm. I thought it would miss us. Charlotte and Cindy were convinced it would hit us. I was wrong. It made a turn in the sky and came straight for us. Continuing on the ridge with lightning so close was far too dangerous. But there was no shelter around either. So we had to hide under some trees, but they didn't keep us dry. Lightning struck at less than 2 km from us. We were happy to have a rain jacket. Only after an hour and pretty wet, we could continue. Clouds were hanging in between the mountains which made it all look mysterious. After 100m, I slipped but luckily didn't hurt myself. But it was a warning. The slippery rocks would make the descents treacherous. We reached Groppoli without further damage and crossed a river on a big suspension bridge. Here we realised we were far behind on schedule. It was 17h and we still had to walk 12km on slippery paths going relentlessly up and down. Not an easy job after a long day. But we were not going to give up. After the hamlet of Previde, there were 5km left to climb. The little villages hidden in these mountains were fascinating. Often only a couple of houses far away from civilization. In Toplecca di Sopra, a sign said only 5 people live here. A man in a suit warned us it was still 2 to 3 hours of walking. He was worried and offered us a ride in the car. We friendly refused the offer. On the trails between the villages, hundreds of old stones covered the path and ancient bridges spanned the creeks. Progress was slow and we were getting more and more tired. For a couple of minutes, it started dripping again but luckily no new thunderstorm followed. We reached the last summit around 20h. From here, it was still 5km downhill and 2km to our airbnb. Halfway the descent, we passed the beautiful village of Arzengio. Two old ladies just came back from a walk to the cemetary. One of them lived in Charleroi, but came here for a holiday because the weather in Belgium had been horrible. After the village, it was getting dark and we got our lights out. Just before entering Pontremoli, we got surprised by animals jumping onto the road: wild pigs. They can attack if they feel threatened, but we managed to scare them away. Walking into Pontremoli, we saw the whole city center was blocked off. It was the first day of Medievalis, a 4 day medieval festival that is organised here every year. Nice for tomorrow, now we were exhausted. We bought a durum along the road and around 22h, we finally arrived at our air bnb. The key was under the mat, the apartment had everything we needed. Time to recover after one of the toughest walking days in a long time. Luckily, today is a rest day which I will spend together with Cindy and Charlotte. I will also try to rest and clean all my gear before continuing for another couple of tough stages. Cindy and Charlotte will stop their Via Francigena here in Pontremoli. They return home on Saterday morning. Best friends ever, we had a great time. The blisters and sore muscles will heal, the memories will last forever. This morning, it was really quiet when we woke up in our B&B in Bardone. We were the only guests. Where are the other pilgrims? Cindy and Charlotte slept in the double bed. I took the third bed with the scooby doo comforter. When we went downstairs for breakfast at 8h, everything was already set up. The friendly owner was not there, but she had left us a friendly note. Her husband waved us goodbye when we left around 9h through the garden with roses. Behind the church, we enjoyed the view over the valley. Today, we had to walk 20 very demanding kilometers while heading deep into the Apennine mountains. There was no time to take it easy in the beginning. We immediately had to climb more than 500m in temperatures above 30 degrees. The concrete road to Terenzo was packed with grasshoppers. They jumped in all directions. As we climbed higher, the view over the valley got wider. When we reached Terenzo, we were already sweating and not a little bit. Along this stretch of the trail, there are old concrete waymarkers with the image of a pilgrim. The church was open. We have a system for this. I go and check if the church door is open. If it is, I make the sound of a seagull. After a quick visit, we continued and an even steeper path followed. A buzzard flew high above us looking for prey. By the time we reached the summit, we looked like we fell into a swimming pool. This was hard work. Luckily, there was a rest area where we could eat something and dry our clothes in the sun. Another Italian pilgrim passed. He wore a hat with Rome on it. After we regained force, we continued and tackled a steep descent into Castello di Casola. Next to the path, somebody had installed 2 garden gnomes. All three of us took a picture at that time. Cindy photographed the gnomes, I took a picture of the view and Charlotte went for the Francigena signpost. Teamwork! To reach Cassio at the halfway point, we first had to climb steeply before descending again. The altitude is not impressive here, but the relentless up and downs make this terrain maybe even harder than the Alps. It took us 5h30 to do the first 10km. Luckily, there was a bar open in Cassio and they even served food. The Dal Vecio saved our lives. An elderly couple could not believe we were doing this route in this weather. We ordered pasta and even ice cream afterwards. Thunderclouds entered the valley. Just like the days before, they covered the sun but didn't drop any rain. The afternoon began easier with a 4km walk slightly descending along the road. Then, another very steep climb awaited us. There was a little monument halfway for a pilgrim who died here. We went to the summit on automatic pilot. Just afterwards, we arrived in the beautiful village of Castellunchio. Houses are very well maintained here with lots of flowers. Villagers even installed a little box in the main street with a stamp for pilgrims. From the church, there was a beautiful view over the valley. Charlotte lay down for a while and even fell asleep. But there were 5km more to walk. The path stayed closely to the road. In a field, people were picking up pieces of metal and glass. We asked what was going on? A camper had a bad accident here and not everything had been cleaned up by emergency services. We kept a good pace. While going up, Cindy takes the lead. In the descents, Charlotte is in front. I'm generally the one in the middle. Around 19h30, we were at the top of the hill overlooking Berceto. What a feeling! The sun was already going down which gave magical views over the valley. We entered the village and went straight to our b&b Gioli. The lady was very friendly, but spoke very fast and only in Italian. We had a hard time understanding her. She stamped our passports upside down. We received the room with the name Daniella. After a good shower, we went into town for pizza. The city center was very busy with lots of people enjoying the terraces. Berceto is at 1000m and the evening was a bit chilly. For the first time in more than a week, temperatures went below 20 degrees. We can recommend pizzeria Romea. Then it was bedtime. Tomorrow, we will get up at 6h. The stage to Pontremoli is 28km long with 3000 altimeters. Another beautiful but challenging day before my fifth rest day. Sadly, that is where Cindy and Charlotte will have to leave again. It has been amazing to hike together with Cindy and Charlotte. This morning, getting up was a bit more difficult for all of us. The heat and intense walking should not be underestimated. But we love it! Because our alarms were not doing the job, the church bells gave us an extra concert. By 8h, our backpacks were almost ready and we had breakfast together in the comfortable hostel. One hour later, it was time to hit the road. Not much was going on in Medesano and we left the village by following a road downhill. Not for long. A steep climb followed and so our legs were warmed up straight away. The sun was burning as usual, 36 degrees had been forcasted. On top of the hill with nice views over the valley, there was a lonely tree. Under that tree, there was a mailbox with a pilgrim guestbook. These little places are magical. Cindy wrote a little message while Charlotte tried to photograph a bug. And I enjoyed the refreshing shade. What a team! After following the ridge for a while, we descended into Felegara. Along the main road, we found a bakery shop open with a nice terrace. It was extremely busy. We had no idea what was going on until we realised that today was a public holiday. We all have coffee to top up our energy level. Charlotte recommended croissants with pistachio cream and they were delicious. Moving on, we took a tunnel under the highway and ended up in the parco fluviale. Nice and flat walking surrounded by green next to the Taro river. We talked the time away and before we knew, we arrived 5km further in Fornovo di Taro. Here we had to cross the Taro river on a massive bridge. Impressive to see how big the river can be. Not today though, because water levels were really low. On the bridge railing, we found a tiny bronze pilgrim. Charlotte really wanted to go for a swim and we were easy to convince. We made our way through some green to find a little fast flowing stream on the wide river bed. After such a hot walk, the refreshing water was amazing. We had so much fun. When coming out, hundreds of little bugs came with us but that couldn't ruin this fabulous experience of wild swimming. Afterwards, we had lunch on a little square before continuing. Now, the crossing of the Apennine mountains would really start. The climb out of Fornovo turned out to be a tough one. Pretty fast, we had a bird's eye view over the city and the river. At the summit, someone had put down two red chairs. They were to tempting to pass. The water point gave us the chance to top up our hydration packs. Incredible but true, a new thunderstorm developed. It would never reach us, but the clouds covered the sun. Just like yesterday, a gift from heaven. A steep descent awaited us. Once downhill, we had to walk 6km along a road. This is never nice, because you always have to be on edge for cars. We played some word games, but half way, we needed another break. We ended up next to the ruins of a roman villa. After some food, we were ready for the last kilometers uphill. First, we passed Sivizzano. The church was open and worth a visit. The rest of the village gave a neglected feeling. After the center, the path left the road and went into the woods. There were two river crossings, but no water. Bardone lies at the top of a hill, so the last kilometer was tough. Our B&B was situated next to the church. The friendly owner was waiting for us. Our room was impressive with a fireplace and wooden beams on the ceiling. The shower was a gift from heaven as always. Later, we chilled in the cosy garden with colourful roses. Charlotte found a swimming pool, but it was only for private use. The owner made us a delicious evening meal. This is the region of the parmegiano cheese and there is nothing better with pasta. What an amazing day to remember. Tomorrow, we climb higher to almost 1000m. A tough 20km awaits us. Looking forward to it! Today was August 14th! In exactly one month, I hope to arrive in Rome. This morning, I woke up with Cindy and Charlotte on the fourth floor of the Astoria hotel in Fidenza. The airco had kept the room cool, but had also blocked my nose. When I opened the blinds, the sun was already at full force. It was only 7h. You can't walk with an empty stomach, so we first headed to the first floor for breakfast. We were the only ones in the big room. On TV, they talked about the collapse of the Ponte Morandi exactly 5 years ago. Around 8h30, we were ready to go. We headed to the cathedral for a short visit. An elderly couple was busy doing some cleaning. The lady saw us and offered to add a beautiful stamp in our passport. The romanesque church is stunning and dedicated to San Donnino. He was beheaded and the legend tells that he picked up his head and put it at the place where the cathedral was build. While looking for the way out of Fidenza, a man told us we could shorten 8km if we would just follow the road. No thanks, too dangerous. We walked through a residential area before following a gravel road. There was still some shade under the trees. The sky was not as clear blue as in the days before. Sadly, air pollution caused this. After 3km, we came to the church of St Thomas Becket but it was closed. The days of non stop walking along flat roads and paths were over. Today, we entered the foothills of the Apennine mountains and these hills would make us do some short but steep climbs and descents. Hard work when it is 36 degrees. After a while, we came to a ridge which we could follow for a couple of kilometers. When the concrete road turned to gravel, we dropped our backpacks and had a break in the shade. We had only done 6km, but we were sweating like we had crossed the Sahara dessert. Later the path continued and brought us deeper into the hills. The little mountains offered us already stunning panoramas. At 12h30 we stood on one hill and saw the next village Costamezzana on the summit of the next hill. To get there, you go all the way down to then go all the way back up. We really needed a break by the time we arrived in the village. To our surprise, there was a bar open. It was named scoiattolo or squirrel. Owner Oliveiro had been working here for 30 years. We sat down and ordered cold drinks. Oliveiro even had a stamp for our passports. Also handy to have a clean toilet, but I will never be a big fan of French toilets. If you take a break, do it in style. With this motto, we also ordered ice cream. Around 14h, it was time to go. Oliveiro was going to have his siesta, we still had to do 10km. The church was closed to visitors. When we continued, clouds started to appear. They came out of nowhere. The path started flat, but then made us climb steeply towards castello di Costamezzana. All that remains, is a big tower but the view over the flatlands is stunning. We continued through even higher farmland. In a meanwhile, it got overcast which gave us some relief from the burning sun. Was there a thunderstorm coming? We could hear thunder. A little concrete road took us further through the rolling fields. Every field had a different colour and the patchwork was stunning to watch. Later, we came across an old tractor. Charlotte and I went behind the steering wheel and felt like Italian farmers. Before we knew, we arrived in the little village of Cella. It looked like the thunderstorm was going to miss us. The sun stayed hidden which was a bliss. The bar in Cella was closed, so we took a break on the local playground. Nothing more fun than trying the seesaw. Time flies when you are having fun. At 16h45, we still had to walk 6km. Above Cella, you can see a cross at the top of a hill. That was where we had to go. Later the path continued on a ridge before going down to Medesano. That's where our bed was for the night. Incredible how we did get shade the whole afternoon, but no rain. The weather gods were in a good mood. After a last up and down and a finish photo, we went shopping in the little carrefour. Our hostel San Giacomo was next to the church. When we arrived, there was nobody there. So we rang the door, nobody opened. So we rang the phone number, nobody answered. What to do? At that moment, an old lady passed. She said that the mass just finished and that the priest was on his way. Surprisingly, the man who turned up was from Pakistan. He was studying in Rome but came to Medesano to help the local priest for a couple of weeks. Nobody else was booked in the hostel for tonight. The price was only 17 euro per pers. It was great with even a kitchen and a washing machine. Only downside, it was more than 30 degrees in the bedroom. We enjoyed a great shower and an apero before heading into town for food. A pizzeria must have seen us as rich tourists. The lady insisted on us buying the most expensive pizzas and even served french fries which we never asked but had to pay. Disappointing, but we had a great evening after an even better day. I'm so grateful that Cindy and Charlotte keep me company this week. Another 22km had been walked, we will do the same tomorrow. More climbing, more heat, more fun! For the first time since the beginning of my walk to Rome, I was going to walk a stage with friends. So happy that Charlotte and Cindy will join me for a week. I woke up very excited. We had a three persons bedroom in hostel Bastimento and we had all three slept very well. Charlotte had left some clothes on the balcony to dry and a pigeon decided that this was the perfect spot to drop some poo. By 8h, we were ready to go. Ready to walk? No not yet, it was sunday and we deserved a good breakfast. We found it in hotel Mathis, a buffet for only 6 euro per pers. Afterwards, it was really time to go. Walking out of a city is always complicated and Fiorenzuola is no exception. We got confused by signs pointing in all directions and had to do some up and downs before finding the way out. Via a cemetery, we entered the corn fields. Even early in the morning, it was already hot. A water cannon on a field was too tempting to just pass and we took a little shower. A rainbow appeared in the falling water. On the fields we also saw tomatoes and sunflowers. We stayed on concrete roads and so we always had to be alert for cars. Time goes faster when you have lots to talk about. We passed another cemetery and decided to have a look. We started talking to a lady who came here every week to clean the family grave. You are only really dead when you are forgotten. After 8 km, we arrived at the abbaye of chiaravalle. It is one of the best preserved cistercian abbayes in Italy. This is a tourist attraction with bars, restaurants and a big parking. Today, it was really quiet. The sunday mass just started. We had the time to have a good look around and received a pilgrim stamp. It is a very peaceful place which makes you step back in time. Afterwards, we had a cool drink on a terrace. This bar had a huge collection of hats. They were decorating all the walls.Time to move on, there was still 15km to walk. We passed the highway on a bridge and continued on some quiet roads through the fields. The village of San Rocco had no services. Along a gravel road, we came to 116 pilgrim stop. A local man had installed a bench and a hammock on his property where pilgrims could rest. We decided to have our lunch here. It was an old farm in the middle of nowhere. After a while, owner Massimo joined us. This warm person made us a free coffee. He had kept his pilgrim guestbooks with notes people left over the last 12 years. The man was a teacher to children 11-14 years old, a teacher with a mission. He explained he wanted children to respect the law. If you can drive 50km/h, don't drive 60. If you think 60 should be allowed, lobby to change the law. He also was into the battle against the maffia. He even had a t-shirt with the face of a young man who was murdered by the maffia. It is still a thing. His wife Claudia lives here in summer. She moves in winter because it gets too cold. We stayed here an hour and a half. Then Massimo went for a 30km bike ride and we continued our walk through the fields. Lots of hay bales on the fields are wrapped here in the colours of the Italian flag. In Castione Marchesi, we topped up our water and had some fun on a playground. By the time we reached Bastelli, we all started struggling with the extreme heat. We took an extra break in the shade before doing the last 5km to Fidenza. There we passed the railway station and went straight to our hotel. Our room had airco. We took some time to recover and took a well deserved shower. I sew a hole in my pants and I was so proud. After sunset, we went to a pizzeria and had a walk around town. The cathedral is impressive on the outside. By 23h, it was bedtime. I knew it already but today confirmed it, Cindy and Charlotte are amazing. Tomorrow, we head into the foothills of the Apennine mountains. Another 22km and temperatures will again go above 35 degrees. The heat wave will continue for minimum a week, but it won't spoil our hiking fun! My alarm was set at 5h30. That's very early, but today was going to be a very long day. I had to walk 32.1 km. While packing my backpack, I opened the window. You would expect it to be quiet on a saterday morning, but not in Piacenza. The rubbish collectors and street sweepers were in full action. Bad luck for people who wanted to sleep a bit longer. But these workmen wanted to avoid the hottest hours of the day. The heatwave was going to intensify today with temperatures above 35 degrees. After a good breakfast in my B&B, I took off. The streets were not busy, but on the central square, the saterday market had started. Signs for the Via Francigena were not clear, but I found one and started following a boulevard out of town. At the ring road, I saw a sticker with an arrow mentioning Santiago. Funny, I thought, they are using the wrong signs here. Two steps further, I realised I might be the one wrong. I took my gps and realised I was at the completely wrong side of town. I had started following the road to Santiago. Three kilometers wrong, three kilometers back, one hour lost and I would have to walk 38km today. Not very smart Dimitri! When I finally arrived at the correct exit point out of Piacenza, there was a big statue of Romulus and Remus.This is were I had to be one hour earlier. But further I went. Walking out of a big city is not nice and Piacenza is no exception. For 10km, I would walk through residential and industrial areas. They had done their best to avoid the bussiest roads, but for a couple of kilometers that was not possible. Then I had to walk along the very busy SS9 road or Via Emilia. A historic route but now full of cars and trucks. There is no cycle lane or sidewalk. It would be fine if drivers would focus on the road. But half of them is busy on their phone and so they don't drive straight. At any moment, I had to be ready to jump in the ditch if necessary. Completely crazy! If you drive, put your phone away. It is the law, it shouldn't be the law, it should be common sense. Who wants to kill somebody for a text? A cyclist passed me and gave me a spontaneous high five. Be safe we said at the same time. After crossing the bridge over the torrente nure, I could finally say goodbye to the highway. The bridge was there, the river wasn't. The drought had left no more water at all. Via a calm path, I entered the village of Pontenure. An American pilgrim approached me. He was from New Hampshire and planned to walk to Sarzana. He had walked earlier from Sarzana to Rome. There is a big fontain in front of the church and that is were I had lunch. There were several shops open here but I decided I had enough water. That would later proof to be a mistake. Once out of town, I entered the fields but kept walking along the road. No more rice fields here, but lots of tomatoes. After 5km, I reached Valconasso. A traffic light turns to red if you enter the village with a speed higher than 50km/h. Car after car had to stop. The church was closed but I dropped my backpack here for 10min. Onwards I went, through more fields to Castello di Paderna. The area around Piacenza has lots of castles. An impressive gate but you don't get any further because it is private property. By now, it was extremely hot. I ran out of water with still 14km to walk. Not smart and even dangerous. Within 4km, there was the next village: Chero. Whatever happened, I needed to find water there. The Francigena continued on asphalt. A bird of prey flew over the dry fields. At the horizon, the Apennine mountains kept coming closer. Almost 90% of the path was on concrete roads today. The church in Chero was closed, the next mass was planned on Sept 3rd. Not a good sign. Pizzeria: closed until end of august. Nobody outside in the gardens of the houses. Last chance, the bar, but also closed. I rang at the door of the bar. Oo pellegrino. A friendly lady opened the door and let me in straight away. I could order what I wanted. A cool bottle of water, she saved my life. Five minutes later, a local girl came to buy an ice cream. Sorry, we are closed was the answer. I thanked the lady endlessly and rehydrated, I moved on for the last 10km. A bit further, an Italian lady started talking to me. From Belgium, mama mia. To Rome, mama mia. On foot, mama mia. Then she started a whole story in Italian which I didn't understand. I always kept smiling, said friendly goodbye, but no idea what she was talking about. Then came the attraction of the day. A river crossing on rocks. It can probably be dangerous in winter, now there was hardly any water. A local family enjoyed the shade there and started talking to me. They were so proud of their region. She said I should try the local dish tonight: pisarei e faso. It's pasta with beans and tomato. I promised I would remember. The last 6km were long, because I was getting tired. I was so happy to see the sign for Fiorenzuola d'Arda. Via a tunnel under the highway and a bridge over the river I reached the center. First thing I saw was the big water tower. But I quickly continued, because my friends Cindy and Charlotte were waiting for me. By now, it was 20h. I was so happy to see them. They had already arranged the hotel room, so I could go straight for the shower. We had an amazing dinner afterwards and yes, we tried the local specialty. It was delicious. Around 23h, it was still 31 degrees outside but our room had airco. After a quick walk around the city, it was time to call it a day. As from tomorrow, I won't walk alone anymore for a whole week. And today I walked 38km in 34 degrees with a 12kg backpack without any problem. I can't be happier! Today, I had my fourth rest day in the beautiful city of Piacenza. Pretty special, because at this point, I'm half way my 1136km hike to Rome. Yesterday evening, I was very tired. I only arrived around sunset. It had been an intense week with long distances far from civilization in hot temperatures and with lots of mosquitos. But I made it! I had crossed the Po. Today, I heard that I couldn't have taken the boat anyway. There is no boat service because the water level is too low. Through the night, it was very warm in my room so I left the window open. But despite the noise of cars, the daylight and the mosquitos, I slept until 10am. The B&B is heaven on earth. The interior makes you step back in time. I didn't pay for breakfast, but the owner left me a little buffet anyway. With again another coffee machine, it took me again some time to figure out but I'm slowly turning into an expert. Around noon, I went to a self service laundry to wash my clothes. That has become a tradition on a rest day. My body is doing great. I had two new blisters after I did almost 60km in 48h, but they are healing already. My fundraising for Make a Wish continues and I have to admit: I'm overwhelmed by the success. Together, we have already raised 85% of the big amount I had set as a target. I didn't have the time yet to thank everybody in person, but I definitely will after my arrival in Rome. I'm so grateful and the money will be used for something very special. Together, we will make a dream come true, the dream of a child with a life threatening illness. We are not there yet. Would you also like to support, check the link https://www.inactievoormakeawish.be/fund.../dimitri-lanssens For more information on my hike, my route and my arrival in Rome, check my website www.dimiwalkstorome.com Later in the afternoon, when the burning sun was not so high in the sky anymore, I went for a walk in Piacenza. The city is next to the river Po, but because the river is to the north seperated from the city by a highway, you don't notice anything from the river once in the center. The city is very logical and it is hard to get lost. Most streets are vertical or horizontal and whatever street you take, at one point you will end up at the central square Piazza Cavalli. Two epic equestrian statues are the first thing to catch the eye. My mission: find the tourist office for my pilgrim stamp. How hard can it be? Well, at first I couldn't find it at all. It is hidden in a small office behind the palazzo comunale. This is not Paris or Barcelona. In the same palazzo, there are clean public toilets but without locks on the door. So you need a friend to stand in front of the door. Not very convenient for a lonely pilgrim. Piacenza has 8 churches in its city center. Just unbelievable. I visited the cathedral which is just massive. In the San Francesco church, there are mirrors on the ground so you can watch the beautiful paintings on the ceiling without breaking your neck. Wanna do some shopping? This is a good place. It is the first city on my route where I found so many boutiques and nicely dressed people. Georgio Armani was born here and he must be proud of his roots. Above a lot of streets, there are colourful umbrellas. I enjoyed some ice cream and then suddenly heard my name. There was Murat with his girlfriend. We had a nice chat and will walk to the same city tomorrow. What's my plan for the next days? Tomorrow, I have my longest stage. Almost 33km to Fiorenzuola d'Arda. This will be my first full day in the Emilia Romagna region. By crossing the Po, I left Lombardia behind. Tomorrow evening, my two amazing friends Charlotte and Cindy will join me and walk the next five stages with me. Not an easy route because we will have to cross the Apennine mountains. Extra concern is the heat. As from this weekend, temperatures will raise above 35 degrees in the shade. But let's take it day by day. I enjoy every minute and it only gets better. Last night, Murat told me he suffers from asthma which often makes him cough a lot through the night. So I was prepared for a noisy night, but earplugs saved me. I didn't hear anything and slept very well. Around 7h, the square next to the hostel was already busy. They were setting up the weekly market. I was not in a rush and neither were Murat and his partner. We shared a nice breakfast. Murat was fascinated by my lightweight equipment. I still can't believe that he is pulling a 17kg trolley from Paris to Istanbul. The trolley is handmade. It is actually a big backpack on wheels which he attaches to his middle. When there are too many rocks on the path, he can still carry the whole construction on his back. Around 8h, Grazielle came in to clean the place. She was very friendly, but also made it very clear that she wanted us out. I exchanged numbers with Murat and we wished each other buen camino! The market attracted quite a lot of people. The church was being renovated and closed to the public. A big sign on the ground said I was 575km from Rome. And tonight, I planned to be 25km closer. First, I walked through the village of Orio Litta passed the stately villa litta carini. The village is very nice with different little squares to hang out. As soon as I walked out, I found myself surrounded by corn fields. A quiet asphalt road took me to Corte Sant Andrea 4km further. A guy stopped and offered me a lift. No thank you, I'm here to walk. He insisted and offered to take my backpack. Euh, do you think I'm gonna give you all I have and let you drive off with it? Is there crazy written on my forehead? The man probably just wanted to be nice, but I was not here to hitchhike. Suddenly, I thought I was going the wrong way. Was I going to Africa? A sign pointed to Somaglia, but apparently that is just the name of a village closeby. Corte Sant Andrea has an impressive arch at the entrance. Expectations were high, but disappointment followed soon. The row houses behind was very badly maintained and half of them were abandoned. Here I climbed back on the ciclovia del Po, a bike/pedestrian trail on a dyke road 5 to 8 meters above the surrounding fields. For bike fans, you can follow this cycle path from Torino to Venice over more than 600km. For me, coming on this path here was very special. After 10 days of walking through its flatlands, I had got my eyes on the river Po for the first time. What an impressive sight. I dropped my backpack and watched the flowing water for a while. The water level of the river was low, but the river was still very wide and fast flowing. Some fishermen were trying their luck. A lot of pilgrims book a boat ride here to the other side. It shortens today's stage. But you needed to book the boat, it costs 10 euro and you end up on the other side where you have to walk through an industrial zone. No no, not for me, I will walk all the way. But that meant I stayed on the left bank of the river and had to walk 20km on a dyke road in hot temperatures. Today, 32 degrees in the shade was forecasted. But there was no shade on the dyke. I started in good spirits. Because I was above the fields, there was a little breeze. The dyke protects the surrounding villages from flooding. But because the floodplain of the Po is so huge, I couldn't see the river from the dyke for most of the time. I saw corn fields to the left and corn fields to the right. Cars are only allowed on the dyke if they have an authorization. Maximum speed is 10km/h, but most read it as 100km/h I think. A floodplain can flood off course. On a little brick house, I saw that the water reaches this dyke if the river is higher than 8 meter. The last big flood goes back to October 2000. Water levels rose to above 9m, villages were evacuated but the dyke I was walking on stood strong. After 2 hours, I really needed a break. But along the dyke, I couldn't find any rest areas, so I sat down under one of the few lonely trees in the shade. Later in the afternoon, I continued following the dyke road. I thought it would just never stop. Some people on bikes passed, but not one hiker, it was just me. The via francigena cuts off a little bit of the dyke by passing through Valloria. It's a little village hidden behind the dyke and surrounded by corn fields. Most people living here are farmers. The church was open and gave me a refreshing break. Getting closer to Piacenza, factories started to appear and a busy road started running next to the dyke. By the time I arrived in San Rocco al Porto, I was really tired. And then I spotted a shopping center. Amazing, toilets, wifi, airco, drinks, food. It's heaven for pilgrims. Except that between the shopping center and my path, there was a big road which was impossible to pass. I had to go all the way around via a tunnel. When I finally got inside, I sat down for a minute before being told by a security agent that I couldn't sit on the ground. I bought myself a cold drink and a snack. The best ever! It was getting late but Piacenza was just on the other side of the river. To get there, I had to cross the floodplain on a viaduc. Now I really got a feeling of how big and mighty this river is. The viaduc is probably 1km long. The sun just set at the horizon. Days are getting shorter. Piacenza was one of the most prosperous cities in Europe in the middle ages. Streets are lined with impressive houses. Giorgio Armani was born here. But discovering the city is for tomorrow. Tonight I went straight to my b&b. The owner was not there but gave me instructions on how to get in. The B&B is called palazzo Malespina and is in the middle of town in one of the many nice houses. My room is impressive and I will sleep like a king tonight. Tomorrow is my fourth rest day. And more important, I'm half way in my hiking adventure to Rome. It has been amazing and I'm so grateful! |
AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! 
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