While writing this text, I just realised this is my last evening alone on the Via Francigena. Tomorrow evening, I will see my sweetheart Caat again after two months of hiking. I'm excited! What an incredible time it has been.
This morning, I woke up in albergo Sutrium in the beautiful hilltop village of Sutri. It won't surprise you that I slept again very well. I don't think I ever slept bad after a whole day of hiking. No breakfast was provided, so I quickly headed to the little Conad supermarket at the edge of town. It was just after 10h when I closed the door of the albergo behind me. Lots of cars were driving around the narrow streets of Sutri. The cathedral sits at the highest point and there was nobody. While people were enjoying their morning coffee on the terraces, I walked downhill and left town through the Porta Vecchia. At the edge of town sits an important archeological park. I didn't have time for a long visit, but I saw the Etruscan necropolis and the Roman amfitheater completely cut out of the tufa hill. Pretty impressive, but I still had to walk more than 25km. The first part went again dangerously along busy roads. You see the weirdest agricultural vehicules here. I suppose they serve in the many hazelnut orchards. On my phone, I had seen a path through the fields. A bit of a detour, but safely away from the road. I walked the whole distance to then come to a closed fence in the end. What to do? I decided to take the risk to climb over it. It went surprisingly well and not having to turn back gave me an energy boost. And I could use one, because it was again very hot. The next 5km, I followed a gravel road through more orchards with little or no shade. So many hazelnuts, you must be able to make so much nutella with these. Suddenly, I passed a sign with 50 on it. Was this the sign saying I was only 50km from Rome? No, it was a sign to Marina's 50th birthday party. Around 14h, I reached the village of Monterosi. There was a steep climb in the end because this village sits at the top of a hill as well. The main street was deserted. I had lunch in the shade of the church and I scored myself a cold drink in a vending machine. At home, you don't realise and you just take a drink. Here, finding a cold drink is pure happiness. Refreshed, I continued my way. Confusing signs almost made me enter the highway, but it was the path just next to it I had to follow. From here, it would take a car on the highway only half an hour to reach Rome. The next 8km went up and down through the fields. Sometimes on gravel, sometimes on asphalt. I passed some huges houses with even bigger gardens. There is also a big golf school in Monterosi. It was possible to reach my destination Campagnano quicker, but the official Via Francigena passes through the Monte Gelato waterfall park. What a name! It could be a circuit in Mario kart. My expectations were high, but I ended up being a bit disappointed. There are indeed different waterfalls, but most of them are not even 1 meter high. On top of that, swimming is strictly forbidden. It would also be impossible with the current waterlevel. I had the park for myself and enjoyed a nice break next to one of the falls. Apparently, the park can be very busy and normally the walking track works with a one way system. It was already 18h30 and I still had 6km to walk. A climb was followed by a descent and another climb. The asphalt turned to gravel. Not an easy road, but an old man in an even older fiat 500 drove like he was on a highway. The sun sets around 19h30. Cooler air announced the night. The last part was through a forest and it got pretty dark. I held a rock in my hand in case wild boar would come out of nowhere. Nothing happened. Around 20h, I climbed the hill into the village of Campagnano di Roma. A narrow long street is divided in two completely different parts by the red town hall. One side has the old houses, the other side is more modern with bars, shops and restaurants. It was quiet in the main street. I met more cats than people. At a roundabout on the far side of town sits albergo Benigni. It is actually a big restaurant with some rooms above. They gave me a room with 3 beds, so I have lots of space. But my room sits next to the ventilation of the kitchen which made lots of noise until 23h30. There was also a strong smell of air freshener when I entered and several mosquitos were waiting for me. It was ok, I just wanted a shower and a bed to rest. Around 21h, there was a big powercut in the hotel, but it was fixed pretty quickly. Tomorrow, I will walk 24km to La Storta where I will meet Caat. During my walk, I should see Rome in the distance for the first time. The weather looks cloudy which would be nice after some hot days. My tibia doesn't bother me anymore. It looks like it healed while I kept walking. I'm happy for this miracle, but I stay careful. There are still 45km left.
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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