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My bed in B&B Dona Nobile stood under a low roof and that's pretty cosy. There was even a little window in the roof. Sadly no stars, but the relaxing sound of falling rain before I fell asleep. Every time I got up, I had to be careful not to hit my head. It went well every time until I forgot once. Auwtsch! I slept very well and got up around 7h30. After a good breakfast that I had bought the day before in the supermarket, it was time to hit the road. What a shock when I came outside. Thick dark clouds in the sky, the streets were wet from the overnight rain and it was only 18 degrees. To start my day, I had to walk through the medieval streets of San Gimignano one more time. I marvelled again at the huge towers that seem to be everywhere. Hundreds of tourists were already walking towards the center. The central square was filled with a big market. Even early in the morning, people were already standing in line to buy icream from the best gelateria in the world. Without a warning, it started raining. Most tourists don't know the concept of a rain jacket. They use umbrellas. Not the small ones, no, massive ones. It just doesn't work in these narrow streets. I almost lost an eye while navigating my way through all these huge umbrellas. With everybody walking into town, I was the only one exiting it via the Porta San Giovanni. Five minutes later, I was alone again. The contrast couldn't have been bigger. In a meanwhile, it had stopped raining. I followed a road, but there was a sidewalk, halleluja! Looking back, there were stunning views over San Gimignano. I made a quick stop at the peaceful monastry Monteoliveto with free toilet. Later the Via Francigena left the road and took a path which lead me deep into Val d'Elsa. As far as the eye could see, there were forests, olive orchards and vineyards. No flat walking though. Every descent towards a little creek was followed by another climb towards a hilltop. Tuscany is beautiful even under a cloudy sky. Now and then I passed a house, but most of the time I felt far away from civilization. I took a first break under a tree and enjoyed the views and the bird songs. After crossing the Torrente Foci, I had to make a choice. I could continue through the rolling hills or walk through the medieval town of Colle di Val d'Elsa. I took the last option. This is also the recommended route in most guidebooks. Just when I had decided, it started raining but this time, it was pooring down. Time to get my rain jacket out. That was a while ago. From 42 to 18 degrees in 5 days. I was happy the heat was gone, but heavy rain brings its own problems. The dusty path became very slippery. On top of that, my shoes are no longer completely waterproof after 6 weeks of hiking. I was sliding over the path getting soaking wet for 10mins when I came across an abandoned shed. I decided to have an early dry lunch. There was even an old chair I could use. After 30min, my stomach was full and the rain had stopped. I continued climbing to come to a concrete road which led to the suburbs of Colle di Val d'Elsa. At first, I was a bit disappointed, but once I had crossed the suburbs and approached the majestic entrance gate, that quickly changed. This medieval town at the top of a hill attracts less tourists than the famous villages, but it's definitely worth a visit. It's internationally recognized for its fine crystal glassware. The statue of a boy blowing bubbles is really cute. And they have a museum on Pinocchio. Once at the end of the hilltop village, there is a path that takes you down to the lower modern part. There is also a lift, but today it was out of service. To get out of town, I had to walk 2km along a busy road lined with garages and big shops. I crossed the river Elsa on a pedestrian bridge. There ended my urban experience and I returned to quiet gravel roads. I passed through hamlets like Scarna and Strove. They are often not more than a couple of houses hidden in the Tuscan hills. The last part of my day went through a forest and then downhill through an olive orchard. At the horizon, I got a first glimpse of the fortified village Monteriggione. That's for tomorrow. I would end my day 3km before in Abbadia d'Isola. This place has 10 inhabitants and consists of an abbaye, a bar and a couple of houses. I had booked myself a bed in the abbaye. When I arrived, there was nobody at reception. So I phoned. The man on the phone was like mama mia, you are late. I thought but didn't say: " papa mia, it is only 19h". Luckily, Sara was in the building. She is from Venezuela, lives here and runs the hostel. She was the first to have a detailled look at my pilgrims passport. I would soon find out why. Everybody who walked longer than 30 days doesn't pay here. So a free night for me. I was again the only pilgrim tonight so I had the whole dorm to myself. Sara spoke Spanish so I could talk a bit with her. I wondered how she ended up here. She was a successful nurse in Venezuela, but she had to flee the country after problems with the authorities. She didn't want to go into details and almost started crying. Venezuela is a dictatorship. Sara is now a political refugee in Italy and her future is uncertain. She would love to go back home, but it's impossible. Heartbreaking! Sara said I could use the food in the kitchen, so I made myself pasta. The shower was cold, but there are worse things in this world. Before going to bed, I wandered around the monastry. Pilgrims have been spending the night here for more than thousand years. I had been lucky today and didn't get wet that much. Hopefully the same tomorrow. Then I will discover the medieval Monteriggione before continuing to Siena. That makes another 23km and brings me at less than 300km from Rome. In Siena, I will meet up with a good friend and enjoy my 7th rest day. Happy days ahead!
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No idea how long DJ Theo continued with his set. Needless to say he didn't keep me awake. When I woke up around 6h, it was 29 degrees in my room. Luckily, there was airco. I turned it on and slept for 2 more hours. Today, my stage was only 13km so I could take my time. Was it raining like the forecast had predicted? I opened the window and saw only blue sky. The bad weather hadn't made it to Tuscany yet. First challenge of the day was to find breakfast. I found a little grocery shop open just around the corner. I was looking around when the owner started rushing me. Coffee, coffee, he said. I was like take it easy man, I'm fine without coffee. But he meant I had to hurry because he wanted to go drink a coffee on the Piazza Roma. How bizarre was that? I took what I needed. When I paid, a Dutch family with 2 children came in. Ai ai ai my coffee, said the man. I thought I was in some kind of hidden camera. Are you pilgrim, he asked. When I said yes, he gave me some bread for free. It was so hard, knock it on somebody's head and the person is dead. Euh, thank you I suppose. After breakfast and packing my backpack, I went to the central Piazza Roma. Street wipers were cleaning up the mess from yesterday and old men were discussing the spectacular weekend. In a meanwhile, clouds had come in and the wind was blowing like crazy. When I saw the croissants in café central, I couldn't resist and took one for the road with an espresso. Then it was really time to go. Via the piazza castello, I walked out of Gambassi Terme and down the hill. First dangerously along a road, then along a quiet gravel track. Tuscany is stunning with its rolling hills. The landscape was more green than yesterday with lots of vineyards. Flies have been annoying in the last two days, but they don't bite and today they struggled in the strong winds. After the descent came a new climb. I took a break halfway and looking back, I could still see the village of Gambassi Terme on top of a hill. Wineries along the path try to lure people in. Free toilet if you buy expensive wine. I let this offer for what it was. After 7km, I came back on a road in the village of Pancole. The people living here have stunning views. In the village, there is a sanctuary after virgin mary would have appeared here to a deaf mute girl. Fascinating is also a cave under the church where you can see life-sized characters of the nativity. I had lunch under the porch of the church. The wind was blowing so hard that I had to keep an eye on all my gear if I didn't want to see it blown away in the Tuscan hills. What did I eat? Tuna salad, my favourite. Back underway and a climb on the road followed. At the top, I could see my destination for the first time: San Gimignano, a jewel of medieval architecture with 15 towers. At a certain moment, there were 72 towers, just unbelievable. But first, I had to finish my walk. The path climbed even steeper to the monastry of Bose. The little roman church was an oasis of peace and quiet. Monks still live here, but they were nowhere to be seen. The last stretch to San Gimignano is along a busy road used by tourists to get to the village. Big signs with flashlights indicate walkers on the road. Some people are carefull, but some drive like crazy. There is no sidewalk, so you have to walk on the road against traffic at any time ready to jump in the ditch if a driver is again not paying attention or doing crazy stuff. One driver made me jump to the side when he overtook in a blind bend. I was happy to reach the roundabout at the bottom of the village alive. The climb into San Gimignano can be done on a sidewalk. Just when I entered the medieval center via the Porta San Matteo, it started dripping. I went straight to my B&B and arrived at 17h. The friendly owner gave me a tour, my room was really nice under the roof. I didn't stay long, because I wanted to have a look in this unique village. I collected a stamp in the tourist office and bought a 5 euro ticket to visit the Duomo. The rain had cleared but it was only 18 degrees. I hadn't felt that for a long time. The duomo is stunning, a festival of black and white marble with stunning frescoes on all walls. I sat down and gave my eyes the time to take it all in. Behind the duomo is a parc that can be easily missed. It is a must, because you get amazing views over the towers and the surrounding hills. The village is a tourist place with lots of people and even more souvenir shops. There was one place I really wanted to go even if I had to wait in the line: gelateria dondoli. They are world famous and would have the best icecream you can buy on this planet. I have to say, it is good. Evening fell, tourists went home and birds starting circling the towers. What a magical place. I stopped at the supermarket and went back to my room for a quiet evening. It started raining outside. Two more days to Siena! Tomorrow, I will walk 23km and sleep in an abbaye. Hopefully without too much rain. The hostel in San Miniato was one of the hottest places where I already spent the night. I suppose the flat roof was to blame. After 30min in bed, I decided to sleep with the window open. Rather a mosquito bite than melting alive. Around 1am, someone starting singing outside, but he only kept me awake for 30sec. This morning, I woke up with fresh air and a view over some trees. A good start of the day. In the end, one other person slept in the hostel but he was in another dorm. Not a pilgrim, but somebody who had worked late in a restaurant. He was a snoozer. His alarm kept going off. I never met him, he was still in bed when I left. I couldn't walk away without a short morning visit to San Miniato. The tourists hadn't yet arrived, so it was really quiet. I had the church all for myself. The view over the valley was amazing, but you could see that the weather was changing. Some high clouds had arrived. A cat on the stairs of the Duomo waived me goodbye and off I went. The first part went along a road. Not my favourite, but this was not too bad. There were outstanding views over the surroundings hills and valleys and there was almost no traffic on this sunday morning. After only 2km, I arrived in Calenzano which was not more than some scattered farmhouses. Here I already passed the last bar of the day, but it was too early for a break. The roads were in very bad condition. It inspired somebody to write on the street: san miniato = strade di merda. Not an issue if you walk. I made good progress while the sun came through and the temperature easily got up to 35 degrees. The path comes along the big swimming pool of San Miniato. Very tempting, but I was on a mission, walking 24km to Gambassi Terme. At a rest area, the Via Francigena left the concrete for a 4 wheel drive path. I sat down for a while and 2 German ladies passed. They had started their 4 day walk to Siena today and were a bit struggling with the hills and the heat. The dirt road Via Elsa took me deeper into the Tuscan hills. These are the rolling hills I associate with Tuscany. Very nice on photos, but very tough, because you keep going up and down all the time. First there was still some shade from trees, but pretty soon all that was left was dry farmland and some cypress trees. After a bit more than 10km, I reached the road again at Coiano. A little hamlet with no services but one big sign: water 100m. In this unforgiving landscape, you don't want to end up without water. So like a river in Africa attracts all the animals, a water fountain on the via francigena attracts all the pilgrims. I found the German ladies again and an Italian man walking with a little horse. I enjoyed the company and took a long lunch break. Afterwards, I continued on the dirt road for the nicest part of the day. The path stayed on top of the hills with stunning views over the surrounding farmland. Incredible how dry and dead everything is. Everything needs rain here. I wouldn't want to be a farmer out here. But I have to say, their big Tuscan houses on top of little hills are stunning. Some of these are clearly also holiday homes. The weather had changed completely and it got completely overcast. Perfect for walking and rain was not forecasted before late at night. Along the path, I bumped into the Slovakian girls from yesterday. They had a story to tell. Yesterday, they took a wrong turn and ended up in another city away from the Francigena. They had to pay 70 euro for a taxi to their hostel. It sounds incredible, but it is so easy to get lost here. However, never continue when you don't see any signs for a while. They learned the hard way, but they kept their positive spirit. Later, I took a break in front of a huge abandoned house. It was getting late and I still had to cover some distance. A little sign under a tree mentions 1506. That's when 150 Swiss soldiers first walked to Rome. It was the start of a long tradition of Swiss guards being responsible for the security in Vatican city. Just before reaching the road again, there was a sign saying big bench uphill. Late or not late, I wanted to check it out. Life is more exciting if you leave the path from time to time. It was a steep 5min climb and then I reached the top of a hill with stunning 360 degrees views. On that hill, they had installed a massive bench, you needed to climb on some rocks to get onto it. Sitting there was just magical. The rolling hills of Tuscany were all around me. And to the right on top of another hill, Gambassi Terme, that's where I needed to get. Not an easy job, because after 20km up and down, there was still a 5km climb. It is clear that some pilgrims struggle on this stretch. For the first time, there were first aid boxes along the path. Stickers also indicated taxi's you could call if your feet couldn't carry you anymore. Not for me, I climbed my way up through the vineyards while it was getting dark. The last part is along a concrete road. Luckily, I could walk behind a guardrail, because some drivers were speeding like crazy. The climb felt like it would never end. I went through Borgoforte before finally reaching a pilgrims hostel in a church and the sign for Gambassi Terme. I had booked an albergo in town, but the owner had said he could only check me in around 22h. So I first went for pasta in town. There was a big event going on in the village. In the afternoon, there had been some sort of a parade. Confetti was everywhere. Now everybody was enjoying beers and snacks in the central square. But the best was yet to come. At 22h, DJ Theo entered the stage. It was so loud and my albergo was on that square. Only at 22h30, owner Stefano showed up to check me in. The friendly man gave me a room at the back of the building, but I could still hear every song. Not a problem for me, that is why I have my earplugs. But first a shower. Here it got a bit bizarre. The shower was just next to the toilet, no curtain or what so ever. So you shower and you flood the toilet. You go back to your room. Later, you go back for the toilet and you have to swim towards it. It made me laugh. Gambassi Terme is located on a hilltop with some nice views and has a thermal complex. Most historic buildings were destroyed during medieval wars. Tomorrow, it is going to be rainy and I will walk the shortest stage of my whole walk. Only 13km to San Gimignano, an old village full of treasures. But now first sleep while DJ Theo is playing zombie nation. When I woke up this morning, I realised I was less than 400km away from Rome. How amazing is that! Then it was time to turn the airco back on. The sun was already on the building and my room was slowly turning into an oven. The Cavalieri del Tau hotel in Altopascio deserves recommendation. All you need for a good night of sleep. There was even a bible in case you forgot to bring a book. The insulation was the only problem. You can literally hear everything that is happening in the building. Luckily, it remained pretty quiet on this early saterday morning. At check-out, I bumped into the friendly receptionist. She even took the time to explain me where to go. So this time, I didn't get lost at the start. It was pretty easy as well. Just follow the main road out of town on a pink sidewalk. After about 1km, the path changed into gravel and disappeared into the forest. The weather forecast promised lower temperatures, but not yet for today. It would again go up to 36 degrees. But the trees gave shade, I hear you think. Yes and no. It was not a thick shady forest, so the sun got through. But it was nice after the roadside walk from yesterday. Birds were chirping and insects were buzzing. I also started singing the famous song singing in the rain. You never know it helps. After a while, I ended up on a gravel road with rounded cobblestones. This road has been here for hundreds of years. Even the milestones still stand. Pretty epic feeling thinking about all the people who walked this road. It brought me to the village of Galleno after 7km. Not much more than one straight main street, but there were two bars and they were open. Which one to choose? Well, the second bar is always better. I made a good choice and enjoyed a cold fanta and a sandwich with tomatoes and mozarella. From here, there were still 20km to walk. The heat would make this a long day. The next stretch went through the Cerbaie plateau. That is a low hill plateau of 120 square kilometers filled with scrubby pine trees. The Via Francigena follows dirt road 201. Easy you would think until dirt roads start going in all directions. I took a wrong turn and had to go back. It made me lose 30min. But then I met 2 fascinating ladies from Slovakia. They were hiking the stretch Lucca - Siena. In my defense, they also had already taken a wrong turn. Surprisingly, one girl was hiking on plastic slippers. Did her hiking shoes get lost? No she preferred the slippers. We hiked together for a while and had great fun. I didn't even notice the path had been going uphill, but suddenly there was a big downhill to reach Ponte a Cappiano. As the name says, this town is all about a bridge. It is a nice covered bridge that spans the Usciana canal. The water was deep green. There is a nice square next to it with several bars, but nothing was open. So I joined a local reading his newspaper on a bench. Not too long, because I wanted to arrive before dark. The path continued on a dyke. No concrete here, but a grassy dusty path. In a meanwhile, my legs were covered in dust and my lips were dry. Not only my lips, the whole landscape surrounding me was dry. The first canal still had water, but the next one looked like it hadn't seen water in a long time. The bridges looked sad. They probably felt useless. The dyke took me into Fucecchio. This nice little town atop a hill has a church at its highest point. My water bag ran out, so I really had to top up. I didn't expect a problem, but everything in this town was closed. I didn't find any bar open nor a shop or a water fountain. Did I end up in a ghost town? The streets were full with parked cars, but the people were nowhere to been seen. As a present from the pilgrim gods, I bumped into a cigarette vending machine which also had water, soft drinks and snacks. Lifesaver! I enjoyed my snack on the terrace of a closed bar. By now, I was getting tired. Doing 30km in 36 degrees with a 12kg backpack isn't nothing. Leaving Fucecchio, I took a bridge over the Arno river. This is Tuscany's most important river. Then another dyke road took me along San Pierino to San Miniato Basso. From here, I could already see my destination for the night: San Miniato, a famous fortified village atop a hill. The tower Federico II can be seen from kilometers away. There is a new walkway that takes you up the hill. It's popular with runners. Someone was also paragliding above the hill. In a meanwhile, it was 20h and the moon welcomed me. The path drops you at the parking just below the center from where you can take a lift into town. San Miniato is small, but attracts lots of tourists. The terraces were full. I went straight to my hostel in the middle of town, but it was already closed. I phoned, no answer. I was just considering my options when a friendly lady called me back in English. The hostel was almost fully booked tonight but nobody had shown up. Honestly, I can't blame them on this terrain with the heat. So I would be the only one again. She explained me where I could find the key. I chose a bed in dorm Nicolas. It was very hot inside, but they had fans. Crazy Dimi still had some energy left for a walk around town. The small medieval streets of San Miniato give you the feeling to go back in time. I even climbed up to the viewing platform at the bottom of the tower. From here, you have stunning 360 degrees views. That's the reason the village came to life. It was a lookout over two important routes which meet here: the via francigena and the road Pisa-Florence. I found a little shop open which sold me a Tuscan specialty with bread and vegetables. After a good shower, that was my evening meal. Tomorrow, another 24 beautiful kilometers to Gambassi Terme. Thunderstorms are only forcasted for the evening so I should be fine. Looking forward to it, but first my body needs some sleep. The airco kept my dorm room at a nice temperature through the night. I slept really well. In this B&B, rooms don't have numbers but names. Dimi slept in room Dina. And I had a new roommate. Her name was Ines and she was from Paris. We had a chat together in the garden. I ate yoghurt and a banana, she had a cigarette. Ines is an architect and she had been travelling through southern Italy by train. Tonight, she would catch up with friends in Lucca. The man who was working in the hostel this morning was named Luka. Amazing name if you live in Lucca. Ines and I checked out together, waved goodbye and both went our seperate ways. I was excited to walk the streets of Lucca one more time. There is a different vibe in the morning. Restaurant staff is setting up the tables and rubbish collectors are emptying the bins. It was already busy at the piaza dell Anfiteatro. Lucca has some fascinating museums. There is one on the history of torture. Sadly, I had no time. I did take a moment to visit the cathedral San Martino. This is the first church on my walk where I have to pay an entrance fee. Honestly, I understand. It is the only way for the city to manage the crowd going in. And 3 euro is not too bad. Everything inside is stunning, from floor to ceiling. And for those with an eye for detail, somewhere on an outside wall, you can find a carved labyrinth. To end my visit in style, I decided to walk on the fortification walls for a while. It was nice in the shade under the trees. I passed the botanical garden before reaching la porta Elisa. This was the place where I would leave this beautiful city behind. It was already noon and the temperature had gone up to 36 degrees. A bit cooler than yesterday and it made a difference. As soon as you leave the historical center, the tourists are gone and the prices are lower. But you end up in a very busy residential area. Today I would do 18km of roadside walking through the busy plain of Lucca. Some people skip this stage by taking a bus, but not me. Not everything in life is fun. And to reach the best part, you often have to go through a difficult part. The same counts for a pilgrimage. So off I went or not. After 500m, I followed a sign for pilgrims on a bike and ended up on the wrong street. Back to start. My second attempt went well. The first 6km to Capannori can be split in two. Three kilometer along a busy road and 3 kilometer on a cycle path. I crossed a lady and she started talking to me. No worries, she said, as from tomorrow, the landscape will become stunning. Capannori is a suburb of Lucca with a nice grass field with trees in the center. There was a bar open where I bought an energy drink and a croissant. The owner changed my drink for one in the fridge. I needed it. To cool off, I had lunch in the back of the church. Hundreds of people in Lucca cathedral, nobody in this church. And this one was free and very beautiful as well. Time to continue. Maybe the road would become more fascinating. Not. Heading for Porcari, I had to cross an industrial zone. I didn't mind, there was still lots to see. After 5km, I reached the city center. The white church is situated on a hill above town. I climbed the hill for fun, but the church was closed. From the top, I could still see the hills of the Apuan Alps around. On the main street, there was a pasticceria open. They had airco and I decided I deserved something extra today. So I went for cake and coke. By now, it was already 17h and it started to cool a bit outside. I continued to follow the road on a pink sidewalk. After crossing a big road, I ended up on the first unpaved road of the day. Happiness! Along this road, I was surprised to find a little memorial monument for Cor Vanlaer, a pilgrim from Antwerp who suddenly collapsed and died here in june 2015. A bit later I passed an archeological site in Badia Pozzeveri. On the terrace of the adjoining hostel was the Italian couple I had met a couple of times. They had decided to continue a bit longer on the Via Francigena. My day was almost coming to an end. Two more kilometers along the road before reaching Altopascio. I first went to my hotel with the beautiful name Cavalieri del Tau. That was a semi military order that was founded here in 1070. There was nobody at reception, but on the desk, there was an envelope with my name. And in that envelope was the key to my room 309. I even found the pilgrim stamp for my passport. On the third floor, I had a nice view on the famous tower of Altipascio. I dropped my backpack, went to the supermarket and afterwards with my last energy of the day, went back into the city to have a look. Around the tower are three squares that form the little charming old town. In the old days, this was the location of the castle and the pilgrim hospital. I called it a day and went back to my hotel for food, shower and rest. Five more days to reach Siena. Tomorrow, I start with a 28km hike through the first rolling hills of Tuscany to San Miniato. It was Friday night and some youngsters were driving around the streets with scooters making lots of noise. As long as they keep it safe and have fun. They wouldn't keep me awake. Today was my sixth rest day and after walking in very hot temperatures for a couple of days, I really needed this one. The airco in the room had been set to 28 degrees and it had to work through the night to keep it so cool. Outside, temperatures of more than 40 degrees had again been forcasted. But no worries for me, I didn't have to walk today. I slept until 10am. My roommate left without making any noise. He seemed like a very nice guy. Too bad we didn't have the time to talk longer. Even if it was short, I'm happy I met him. Breakfast was until 10am, so I missed it. Luckily, there was a supermarket nearby. Most important job of the day: laundry. My clothes had never smelled so bad before. I wonder how much liters of sweat they had absorbed. The entry door to the self service laundry was in full sunshine. To give you an idea how hot it was, I couldn't touch the metal door handle without burning myself. I had to use a towel to open it. Around noon, Lucca was a ghost town. Everybody was hiding inside. I took the time to book accommodation for the coming days and then I spent my afternoon the Italian way with a siesta. My fundraising for Make a Wish is still continuing. Before I took off, I had hoped to raise 1 euro per kilometer so 1136 euro. In a meanwhile, we have raised all together 1314 euro. Thank you so much. I didn't have the time to thank everybody in person, but that time will come. It means a lot to me, it means even more to Make a Wish and it will mean the world to the sick children who will see their dreams come true. I won't put the total amount higher, but for those who still would like to help, please do so. It is possible to donate until the day of my arrival in Rome and every euro will be spent well. For all information, check the link https://www.inactievoormakeawish.be/fund.../dimitri-lanssens Hot or not hot, leaving Lucca without discovering it would be a shame. Honestly, this is the nicest city I have come through since I started. It's hard to explain. You have to be here to experience the whole vibe. First of all, the fortification walls that still stand around the whole center. They are 4km long and you can walk or cycle on them. No bike? No worries. Several shops rent bikes and even go karts. Next to the eastern part of the walls, there is a building that hosts a via francigena museum. The perfect place to start. Except that is was closed. The tourist office at the Porta Elisa was open and a friendly lady put a nice stamp in my passport. Tomorrow, I will leave the city through this gate. But now, I was in for some tourist time. I really wanted to visit the Torre Guinigi. A bit crazy to climb 233 steps on my day off, but the view at the top was stunning. Really worth 6 euro. Amazingly, there are trees growing at the top of this tower. Later, I wandered the narrow streets. It's great to just get lost. The cathedral was closed already, but just seeing the outside was nice as well. I had passed so many gelaterias, I couldn't resist anymore. Amazingly, three balls of ice cream were the smallest you could order here. Small is not my style, so I went for four. I sat down on one of the many squares and two guys started playing the guitar. John Lennon, Metallica, Leonard Cohen, it was just magical. Day turned into night and the city lights went on. At 21h, it was still 35 degrees. While going back to my hostel, I walked over the Piazza Anfiteatro. Once, there was an amfitheater here. That's gone, but the buildings surrounding the square follow the elliptical shape. Epic battles are now replaced by terraces of restaurants. I went back to my hostel much later than planned. What a beautiful night. I spent some time sitting outside before showering and going to bed. My batteries are recharged. I have 19 walking days left to Rome. Tomorrow, temperatures would be cooler but still reach 35 degrees. I plan to visit the cathedral before walking 18km to Altopascio. Another magical day ahead! Around 1am, the square in front of my guesthouse in Camaiore was still busy. People were laughing while having a drink on one of the terraces and children were running around. Everybody wanted to make the most of the coolest hours. I didn't mind and slept very well with my earplugs. When I woke up, I turned the airco on. I'm not a big fan, but it does help to keep cool. Breakfast was included in my stay. I love it when you just have to go down and there is food ready. Here they even had croissants and watermelon. The guesthouse Le Monache is very well maintained and cosy. It exists since 1925. Can you imagine how many people stopped here and were happy to find a bed and food? So many stories of coming and going. For me, it was time to go. I stepped outside and the heat punched me in the face. Today was even going to be hotter than the previous days. Camaiore is nice without being special. There is one main street full of bars and shops that goes from one side of town to the other. The church is located halfway and was open. I made it almost a tradition to quickly visit before I take off. The Via Roma took me further away from town. The Via Francigena does its best to avoid the busy SP1 highway. At first, I followed some quiet roads which stayed near the highway. The Italian couple I met yesterday passed again and we had a short break together in the shade. Their hiking journey would end today. By 11h, it was already 41 degrees in the shadow. Just behind a small church, the path went steeply uphill. Here I left the sea behind and entered the Apuan Alps. After a couple of steep switchbacks, I reached the village of Montemagno. From here, I had a stunning view over the valley back to Camaiore. According to my guidebook, I could even catch a last glimpse of the sea. I did my best but couldn't spot it at the horizon. To my surprise, a couple had headed up the path with mountainbikes. The woman made it. The man had to get of his bike. Who is the strongest sex?The white statue of a man playing guitar didn't blink an eye. From here, the official path originally followed the SP1 highway for 4km until Valpromaro. But there is no sidewalk, it's dangerous. So they changed it and pilgrims now have to climb higher to the village of Licetro to then come back down. The climb was so tough in the heat, but higher up I did spot the sea one more time. At the top, I took a long break, too long, but I had to cool down. Back down, there is still 2km to walk along the highway. With cars passing inches from you, it is not a relaxing part. I was happy to reach Valpromera. And I was even happier to see there was a bar open. The cold coke was the best I ever had. It was so hot I decided to stay here for 1,5 hours which would allow me to walk later in the day. Some Italian men were having a loud discussion in the bar. I didn't understand a lot, but they kept repeating the word cappuccino. Around 16h, I was back on the road and a new climb awaited me. This time, the path finally turned away from the highway and brought me into the forest. Here, there are even signs for the ippovia francigena or the pilgrimage with a horse. With signs for cars, bikes, hikers and horses, you have to really pay attention. On top of the hill, there is Piazzano. I was only a few kilometers away from the busy mediterranean cities, but this village felt like another world. Narrow streets, old houses overlooking the green hills around, no more cars, people peacefully sitting outside. This is more my cup of tea. Next to the church, there were two chairs overlooking the valley. I took the time to sit down for a while. All I could hear where birds. The descent after the village was long on a narrow winding road. By the time I arrived at the bottom of the hill, it was already 17h30. Luckily, the hottest hours of the day had passed. Lucca was not so far anymore. First I had to follow a road for 4km. The Via delle Gavine brought me to San Macario where there was nothing to see except for some houses. I was happy to reach the bridge over the Serchio river. Yes, not only a Belgian singer but also an Italian river. This would be a perfect quiz question. Surprisingly, there was quite some water left in the river bed. From here, I could follow the dyke for 3km along the river. The sun was just disappearing behind the hills. It is a very nice and serene way to walk into a city. And what was the first thing I saw in Lucca? A knight? A castle? No, a huge complex with padel fields. Modern entertainment is not the same anymore. After some kilometers through a residential area, I finally reached the center. Lucca is beautiful. Everybody should visit this place when in the area. The fortification walls around the city have been completely preserved. You can walk or cycle on them. The complete tour is around 4km. There are 6 entrance gates that give access to the city. I entered via the Porta San Donato. It feels like stepping back in time. Well, not completely with thousands of tourists in the streets but still. I first went to my hostel. I scored a bed for 26 euros within the city walls. The receptionist was very friendly. He explained that the old houses that line the streets are completely protected and can not be changed. Even the installation of airco is not allowed. Because the dorms were in a house in the back, they had airco.To my surprise, my dorm only had 2 beds. I shared with a young man from Paris who was visiting several Italian cities during a one week holiday. I went for pizza and had a long cold shower. I did it, I made it to Lucca despite the heat, I'm so tired and happy. My roommate snores but even an atomic bomb won't keep me awake. Tomorrow is my 6th rest day. Then I will let my tired body relax, but I will definitely also discover Lucca. And the weather? Tomorrow again 40 degrees, but then a complete change. On Monday they give only 23 degrees with lots of rain and even a warning for flooding. So new challenges await me towards Siena. I take it day by day, what a great adventure this is! Around midnight, a man started washing his clothes by hand in the hostel. There was also quite a lot of noise in the streets. I closed the window and fell asleep straight away. Later I woke up again because it was so hot in my room. So I opened the window again. The people had gone to bed, but a cat came to say hello. I woke up pretty tired after the last tough days. But knowing that I had a new day of walking in front of me always gives me energy. In the bathroom, a sign asked to close the window when you use the toilet. The neighbours had already complained. During breakfast, the kind lady of the hostel came to say goodbye. She even had a second stamp for my passport. When I left, there were already a lot of people enjoying a morning coffee on the Piazza Mercurio. The plaza Aranci is even bigger. The market was just starting around the statue with four big lions. I didn't leave before having a quick look in the cathedral. The marble façade is pretty impressive. Just in front, 4 men were having a look at a broken down car. Time to go! Fully confident I started walking to realise 500m further that I was on the bike route. Bummer, back to start. Afterwards, I found the correct route, climbed towards a church and walked around a castle on a hill top. To reach Capanne, I had to follow the busy Via Aurelia. Most of the time, sidewalks were non-existant. I was happy to reach the village. A bar made publicity with free water for pilgrims. Not a good business concept because the bar was for sale. In the main street, I bought a snack and ate it inside the church. It was not even noon and the temperature was already above 35 degrees in the shade. To add to the challenge, there was a climb to do. I was happy to be away from the busy traffic and the views over the Mediterranean Sea were breathtaking. The narrow streets with lots of blind bends are tricky for cars. There is also something most Italian drivers don't understand. They horn, which is good but they don't slow down. If you horn but round the bend at 60km/u, you are not going to avoid an accident. I made it up safely and started the descent in between two hills. Halfway, there was a rest area where I topped up my water. An Italian couple passed. They had planned to do only 5 days. People walking to Rome are hard to find. The road continued in between houses before reaching Ripa after 11km. I was so hot, but there was nothing open. Luckily, the church was. I spent 40min in there enjoying lunch while cooling my body. The church has a big mural above the front portal. I took a fresh start and followed the path along a water channel. Lots of people were struggling with the heat. A man was cooling his feet under a water fountain, others were enjoying a swimming spot. When people see me, they don't even say buongiorno anymore. They say caldo which means warm. Most probably think I'm crazy to walk in this heat. I passed many marble factories. Carrara marble is big business here. Later that afternoon, I reached Pietrasanta. By then, I was completely dehydrated. I went straight to carrefour for a cold drink. That's when I decided it was too tricky to keep walking. I was close to being overheated. I called my guesthouse for the night and told them I would be late. That was no problem. I would spend some time here and walk the last 9km to Camaiore after 18h. Pietrasanta is an amazing little town. Big art works can be found literally everywhere. The main street has lots of cool little shops and the central square is packed with cosy bars and restaurants. The cathedral of San Martino is built with white marble. There is also the albergo Pietrosanta. I thought it was a pilgrim hostel, but it's one of the small luxury hotels of the world. I continued after 18h. Here the path turns away from the Sea and heads back to the mountain valley. After spending some time along a busy road, I was happy to climb up a quiet hill. The temperature was already lower now. I even got a glimpse of the Mediterranean before making my way down into Camaiore. The via went through a little bamboo forest which was pretty magical. The last 2km are done on a cycle path at a safe distance from the busy road. I went straight to my hostel and arrived around 20h15. It was situated on a nice square with lots of bars and restaurants. The lady behind reception was just enjoying some ice cream. Her husband spoke some French, so we could have a little chat. Stepping into my room was like stepping into the house of your grandmother. But the room was comfortable, clean and the shower was the best in a long time. And there was airco! I enjoyed the rest. My room was just above the terrace of the restaurant, but even a fire alarm wouldn't keep me awake. Tomorrow looks similar as today, 25km in 38 degrees. But then I arrive in the historical city of Lucca where I will have a rest day on Thursday. That will be good for charging the batteries and washing all my smelly gear and clothes. At 2am this morning, a man suddenly entered my dorm room. Who was he? He went to the toilet and left again. I was barely awake so I didn't ask myself many questions. When I woke up this morning, I wondered if I had dreamt this. But no, around 7h30, he was back. He went to the toilet and took off again. I didn't even had the time to ask him something. Very strange! And I had some more unexpected visitors. Ants had discovered my food. By 8h30, it was time to leave my cosy little house behind the soccer field. Outside, the sun was already burning. I dropped the keys in the mailbox and went to the center of Sarzana. It is easy to fall in love with this city which narrow streets kept a medieval vibe. You enter via the Porta Parma and one straight street takes you through the whole town. The cathedral is worth a visit. Around town, they were setting up an antique market. I saw some really nice things, but there was nothing I wanted to carry to Rome. Just north of the main street, there is the Fortezza Firmafede. An impressive castle that stands strong until today. Leaving the city, a climb was waiting for me. The rewards at the top were beautiful views over the valley and Fortezza di Sarzanello, another castle where you can't get in but a walk around the impressive thick walls is free. Afterwards the path descended again and continued towards the sea. This is a very urban area. The colourful villas gave a very southern feeling. Seagulls showed that the Mediterranean Sea was not far anymore. Most of the morning, I spent on concrete roads with houses to the left and right. The contrast with the mountains couldn't be bigger. Some people leave something outside for pilgrims. At one house, they kept a book in which you could write where you came from and to where you were going. Luckily, the walkway sometimes escaped the hustle and bustle by following irrigation channels. The water was very clear and lots of fish enjoyed the cool water. I was jealous! After 11km, I reached Luni. This may not sound familiar, but for centuries this was a flourishing city. The vikings once attacked it because they mistook it for Rome. Now, there is only an archeological dig left. The entrance gate was closed, the parking was empty and the bar looked like it hadn't been open for a while. I enjoyed my lunch on the empty terrace. Here, I was at only 1,5km from the Mediterranean Sea. People probably prefered the beach to a history class. I still had 18km left. The path went around the site and I have to say, there is not much left from the city. Except for the amphitheater which ruins are still clearly visible. Tonight, there was an outdoor movie night. You could watch Gladiator inside the amfitheater for 1 euro. How cool is that? Sadly, I couldn't wait for that. I continued my way to Avenza. This is a busy city without much to see. The is one tower left of an old fortress that once stood here. The main attraction is when you look to the mountains behind the city where you can see lots of white. That is were Carrara marble is digged out. Big factories ship this white gold to destinations around the world. Here they have different signposts for the via francigena by car, by bike and on foot. It's sometimes confusing. Walking through urban regions has advantages. One is supermarkets. And what did sweaty Dimi buy? Two liters of water, one sport drink and one dark chocolate tablet. I was ready for the final 10km. Instead of going straight to Massa, the Via Francigena climbs into the hills. Why? I wondered as well.The climb was short but intense. Once at the top of Monte Greco, I was happy I did it. The highlight of my day, a stunning view over the valley and the ocean. After more than a month, I had reached the Mediterranean Sea. I could actually be laying on the beach with a cocktail right now, but I prefer my sweaty hiking challenge. In these hills, it is much more quiet. Only a couple of people live here. The rest of the slopes is taken by vineyards. I followed the ridge enjoying the view. The couple of kilometers of flat land between the hills and the sea is completely filled with roads and buildings. With the sun going slowly lower and a sea breeze picking up, I descended into Massa. As soon as I came down, I was surrounded by buildings again. I went straight to my pilgrim hostel for the night: palazzo nizza. Reception was closed. I had to phone. To my own surprise, I managed to handle a basic conversation in Italian. So proud. Once inside, the key to my room lay on the reception desk. It was a 5 bed dorm, but I was the only one as always. I quickly went to the supermarket before enjoying a shower, good food and rest. Tomorrow, I head back inland to Camaiore. Another 25km to walk and the weather stays the same at the moment: extremely hot. My body handles the heat pretty well. Except for some skin irritation, I'm fine. Fingers crossed it stays that way. I woke up like a king in my luxurious B&B. This is not something I could afford every day, but from time to time, you have to spoil yourself. At 7h30, the sun was already burning on the window. I kept the curtains closed and turned the airco on. Breakfast was already delivered and put down in front of my door. There was even a pistachio croissant. It's an Italian thing and it's so good. The weather forecast gave extremely hot for today, so I was happy I could get ready in cool temperatures. I tried to be as prepared as possible. My water bag was put in the fridge and I took 3 liters. The stage of the day was only 17km, but it was marked by a big climb which should not be underestimated. I took my time and left around 9h30. Bed and bike is situated in an industrial zone, but pretty quickly, I found the walking trail again which takes you straight into the city. Aulla couldn't convince me yesterday and I didn't like it much more this morning. Lots of different apartment buildings give a bit of a comfortless feeling. Aulla lost a lot of historic buildings during WO II bombings. Some monuments still remind of that sad time. The Abbazia di San Caprasio is still there. When I walked in, they were preparing the mass of 11h15. I wonder why they don't start at 11h. Maybe to allow people to be 15min late. Suddenly, I heard my name. Was God calling me? No, the owner of the bed and bike b&b was in the mass with her son. She was really nice and wished me all the luck in the world. Just before mass started, the help priest stamped my passport. He had a double job: light all the candles and turn all the fans on. Extra work due to the heat wave. The church got pretty full, but I had to go. I walked through an old city gate and crossed the Aulella river with almost no water over a bridge. Then I took a left turn and that's where the climb began. Monte Grosso is not even 600m high, but it takes a long 8km to get to the top. The first part is pretty overgrown. Good news: there is shade. Bad news: there are bugs. Horseflies came straight for me. Luckily, I had my strong insect repellent. Later I climbed on a wider gravel track. The heat was intense. I would meet nobody on the walking trail the whole day. After 3km, I reached the village of Bibola. It's a cute collection of colourful houses on top of a hill. At the highest point, there is a castle ruin. I enjoyed the view and took a first break. My t-shirt was already soaking wet so I let it dry in the sun. Afterwards, there was a little descent to Vecchietto. This is another little hamlet hidden in the mountains and forgotten by the world. Three elderly people were relaxing on a bench in the shade. The post office looked like it hadn't been open in years. Now, it was time for another big effort. The last 4km of climbing. The path was often pretty narrow and overgrown. In parts it's really steep with switchbacks. I was a bit disappointed when I came to the top. Because of the trees, there is almost no view. There is not even a rest area. So I decided to push on and start the descent. Just after the summit, I found a rusty old car which much have been there for a very long time. The descent also happened in the shade of trees, which was a lifesaver. Suddenly, it opened up and the view was stunning. I could see the whole valley up until the mediterranean sea. I had made it through the Apennine mountains. Wow, what a happy feeling. In front of me on a hilltop was the village of Ponzano Superiore. This is one of the most unique villages I have ever visited. It's overlooking the whole valley. The narrow streets make that cars can't get in. Before my visit, I ordered a cold drink in the only bar in town and enjoyed my late lunch. Walking around the village enjoying the views is already something. But entering the maze of tiny streets, arches and stairways is magical. It's not big at all, but can you believe I couldn't find the exit anymore? Two old ladies started talking. Italians are funny. Even if they know you can't speak Italian, they start in Italian. If you answer with the only two Italian words you know, they continue telling a whole story and you have no clue what they are talking about. If you are ever around, visit this place. It made me think of the Cinque Terre villages which are not so far from here. Except that in this village, there are no tourists and no shops and no commercial stuff. Authenticity at its best! From here, 6km were left to Sarzana and they were downhill. Just into the descent, a car stopped. It turned out to be a Dutch man who has been living in Sarzana for 10 years. He is growing grapes on these hills and makes his own wine. It was a very scary decision for him to move here but now, he is really happy. Always follow your dreams! What is the worst that can happen? The friendly man even gave me some grapes for the downhill. I passed another castle ruin and Sarzana came into view. The slope was southern oriented and the heat got to me. The last part followed a water channel. I was really tempted to jump in, especially because I ran out of water. In Sarzana, the pilgrim hostel is just outside the center next to a church. The gate was locked. A man on a bike started talking to me. You come from Aulla. Oh how long did it take you, three hours? Longer, oh you are slow. Then he started talking about villages I would have passed but nothing sounded familiar. He had no clue. I left him in his world and called the phone number on the gate. A friendly lady said she would come. Two minutes later, she was there. She was from Colombia and helped the church community for a while. ext to the church, there is a soccer field and behind there is a little building: the pilgrim hostel. There are 14 beds but surprise, there was nobody. It was basic, but all I needed. There was even a microwave. I went to the supermarket 400m further before taking a 15min cold shower. The last days have been the toughest since I started. The Apennine mountains were more intense than expected and now there is that enormous heat wave. But I keep going and I keep loving it. Three more stages to Lucca. There I have another rest day and it should get cooler as well. But first another 29km to Massa tomorrow in 36 degrees. I will be ready but first sleep! |
AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! 
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