Around 1am, the square in front of my guesthouse in Camaiore was still busy. People were laughing while having a drink on one of the terraces and children were running around. Everybody wanted to make the most of the coolest hours. I didn't mind and slept very well with my earplugs.
When I woke up, I turned the airco on. I'm not a big fan, but it does help to keep cool. Breakfast was included in my stay. I love it when you just have to go down and there is food ready. Here they even had croissants and watermelon. The guesthouse Le Monache is very well maintained and cosy. It exists since 1925. Can you imagine how many people stopped here and were happy to find a bed and food? So many stories of coming and going. For me, it was time to go. I stepped outside and the heat punched me in the face. Today was even going to be hotter than the previous days. Camaiore is nice without being special. There is one main street full of bars and shops that goes from one side of town to the other. The church is located halfway and was open. I made it almost a tradition to quickly visit before I take off. The Via Roma took me further away from town. The Via Francigena does its best to avoid the busy SP1 highway. At first, I followed some quiet roads which stayed near the highway. The Italian couple I met yesterday passed again and we had a short break together in the shade. Their hiking journey would end today. By 11h, it was already 41 degrees in the shadow. Just behind a small church, the path went steeply uphill. Here I left the sea behind and entered the Apuan Alps. After a couple of steep switchbacks, I reached the village of Montemagno. From here, I had a stunning view over the valley back to Camaiore. According to my guidebook, I could even catch a last glimpse of the sea. I did my best but couldn't spot it at the horizon. To my surprise, a couple had headed up the path with mountainbikes. The woman made it. The man had to get of his bike. Who is the strongest sex?The white statue of a man playing guitar didn't blink an eye. From here, the official path originally followed the SP1 highway for 4km until Valpromaro. But there is no sidewalk, it's dangerous. So they changed it and pilgrims now have to climb higher to the village of Licetro to then come back down. The climb was so tough in the heat, but higher up I did spot the sea one more time. At the top, I took a long break, too long, but I had to cool down. Back down, there is still 2km to walk along the highway. With cars passing inches from you, it is not a relaxing part. I was happy to reach Valpromera. And I was even happier to see there was a bar open. The cold coke was the best I ever had. It was so hot I decided to stay here for 1,5 hours which would allow me to walk later in the day. Some Italian men were having a loud discussion in the bar. I didn't understand a lot, but they kept repeating the word cappuccino. Around 16h, I was back on the road and a new climb awaited me. This time, the path finally turned away from the highway and brought me into the forest. Here, there are even signs for the ippovia francigena or the pilgrimage with a horse. With signs for cars, bikes, hikers and horses, you have to really pay attention. On top of the hill, there is Piazzano. I was only a few kilometers away from the busy mediterranean cities, but this village felt like another world. Narrow streets, old houses overlooking the green hills around, no more cars, people peacefully sitting outside. This is more my cup of tea. Next to the church, there were two chairs overlooking the valley. I took the time to sit down for a while. All I could hear where birds. The descent after the village was long on a narrow winding road. By the time I arrived at the bottom of the hill, it was already 17h30. Luckily, the hottest hours of the day had passed. Lucca was not so far anymore. First I had to follow a road for 4km. The Via delle Gavine brought me to San Macario where there was nothing to see except for some houses. I was happy to reach the bridge over the Serchio river. Yes, not only a Belgian singer but also an Italian river. This would be a perfect quiz question. Surprisingly, there was quite some water left in the river bed. From here, I could follow the dyke for 3km along the river. The sun was just disappearing behind the hills. It is a very nice and serene way to walk into a city. And what was the first thing I saw in Lucca? A knight? A castle? No, a huge complex with padel fields. Modern entertainment is not the same anymore. After some kilometers through a residential area, I finally reached the center. Lucca is beautiful. Everybody should visit this place when in the area. The fortification walls around the city have been completely preserved. You can walk or cycle on them. The complete tour is around 4km. There are 6 entrance gates that give access to the city. I entered via the Porta San Donato. It feels like stepping back in time. Well, not completely with thousands of tourists in the streets but still. I first went to my hostel. I scored a bed for 26 euros within the city walls. The receptionist was very friendly. He explained that the old houses that line the streets are completely protected and can not be changed. Even the installation of airco is not allowed. Because the dorms were in a house in the back, they had airco.To my surprise, my dorm only had 2 beds. I shared with a young man from Paris who was visiting several Italian cities during a one week holiday. I went for pizza and had a long cold shower. I did it, I made it to Lucca despite the heat, I'm so tired and happy. My roommate snores but even an atomic bomb won't keep me awake. Tomorrow is my 6th rest day. Then I will let my tired body relax, but I will definitely also discover Lucca. And the weather? Tomorrow again 40 degrees, but then a complete change. On Monday they give only 23 degrees with lots of rain and even a warning for flooding. So new challenges await me towards Siena. I take it day by day, what a great adventure this is!
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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