I woke up like a king in my luxurious B&B. This is not something I could afford every day, but from time to time, you have to spoil yourself. At 7h30, the sun was already burning on the window. I kept the curtains closed and turned the airco on. Breakfast was already delivered and put down in front of my door. There was even a pistachio croissant. It's an Italian thing and it's so good.
The weather forecast gave extremely hot for today, so I was happy I could get ready in cool temperatures. I tried to be as prepared as possible. My water bag was put in the fridge and I took 3 liters. The stage of the day was only 17km, but it was marked by a big climb which should not be underestimated. I took my time and left around 9h30. Bed and bike is situated in an industrial zone, but pretty quickly, I found the walking trail again which takes you straight into the city. Aulla couldn't convince me yesterday and I didn't like it much more this morning. Lots of different apartment buildings give a bit of a comfortless feeling. Aulla lost a lot of historic buildings during WO II bombings. Some monuments still remind of that sad time. The Abbazia di San Caprasio is still there. When I walked in, they were preparing the mass of 11h15. I wonder why they don't start at 11h. Maybe to allow people to be 15min late. Suddenly, I heard my name. Was God calling me? No, the owner of the bed and bike b&b was in the mass with her son. She was really nice and wished me all the luck in the world. Just before mass started, the help priest stamped my passport. He had a double job: light all the candles and turn all the fans on. Extra work due to the heat wave. The church got pretty full, but I had to go. I walked through an old city gate and crossed the Aulella river with almost no water over a bridge. Then I took a left turn and that's where the climb began. Monte Grosso is not even 600m high, but it takes a long 8km to get to the top. The first part is pretty overgrown. Good news: there is shade. Bad news: there are bugs. Horseflies came straight for me. Luckily, I had my strong insect repellent. Later I climbed on a wider gravel track. The heat was intense. I would meet nobody on the walking trail the whole day. After 3km, I reached the village of Bibola. It's a cute collection of colourful houses on top of a hill. At the highest point, there is a castle ruin. I enjoyed the view and took a first break. My t-shirt was already soaking wet so I let it dry in the sun. Afterwards, there was a little descent to Vecchietto. This is another little hamlet hidden in the mountains and forgotten by the world. Three elderly people were relaxing on a bench in the shade. The post office looked like it hadn't been open in years. Now, it was time for another big effort. The last 4km of climbing. The path was often pretty narrow and overgrown. In parts it's really steep with switchbacks. I was a bit disappointed when I came to the top. Because of the trees, there is almost no view. There is not even a rest area. So I decided to push on and start the descent. Just after the summit, I found a rusty old car which much have been there for a very long time. The descent also happened in the shade of trees, which was a lifesaver. Suddenly, it opened up and the view was stunning. I could see the whole valley up until the mediterranean sea. I had made it through the Apennine mountains. Wow, what a happy feeling. In front of me on a hilltop was the village of Ponzano Superiore. This is one of the most unique villages I have ever visited. It's overlooking the whole valley. The narrow streets make that cars can't get in. Before my visit, I ordered a cold drink in the only bar in town and enjoyed my late lunch. Walking around the village enjoying the views is already something. But entering the maze of tiny streets, arches and stairways is magical. It's not big at all, but can you believe I couldn't find the exit anymore? Two old ladies started talking. Italians are funny. Even if they know you can't speak Italian, they start in Italian. If you answer with the only two Italian words you know, they continue telling a whole story and you have no clue what they are talking about. If you are ever around, visit this place. It made me think of the Cinque Terre villages which are not so far from here. Except that in this village, there are no tourists and no shops and no commercial stuff. Authenticity at its best! From here, 6km were left to Sarzana and they were downhill. Just into the descent, a car stopped. It turned out to be a Dutch man who has been living in Sarzana for 10 years. He is growing grapes on these hills and makes his own wine. It was a very scary decision for him to move here but now, he is really happy. Always follow your dreams! What is the worst that can happen? The friendly man even gave me some grapes for the downhill. I passed another castle ruin and Sarzana came into view. The slope was southern oriented and the heat got to me. The last part followed a water channel. I was really tempted to jump in, especially because I ran out of water. In Sarzana, the pilgrim hostel is just outside the center next to a church. The gate was locked. A man on a bike started talking to me. You come from Aulla. Oh how long did it take you, three hours? Longer, oh you are slow. Then he started talking about villages I would have passed but nothing sounded familiar. He had no clue. I left him in his world and called the phone number on the gate. A friendly lady said she would come. Two minutes later, she was there. She was from Colombia and helped the church community for a while. ext to the church, there is a soccer field and behind there is a little building: the pilgrim hostel. There are 14 beds but surprise, there was nobody. It was basic, but all I needed. There was even a microwave. I went to the supermarket 400m further before taking a 15min cold shower. The last days have been the toughest since I started. The Apennine mountains were more intense than expected and now there is that enormous heat wave. But I keep going and I keep loving it. Three more stages to Lucca. There I have another rest day and it should get cooler as well. But first another 29km to Massa tomorrow in 36 degrees. I will be ready but first sleep!
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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