My room 16 in albergo la torre was on the second floor and had a balcony. As soon as I woke up, I went outside. The sun was already shining. What a view! The town of Radicofani was really built on the top of the highest hill in the area.
Breakfast was included today. When I came down, I thought I arrived for afternoon tea. The only thing I saw was cake and cookies. The friendly owner with big glasses smiled. Dulce, dulce he said. Luckily, I found a yoghurt and some toast as well. Except for one woman, I was alone in the big dining room. The curtains were closed to keep the sun out. I went back upstairs to pack my bag and left around 9h30. It was quiet in the main street Via Roma. The summer holidays are clearly over. I paid a quick visit to the romanesque church of San Pietro. A lady tried to sell me a souvenir, but I was not going to carry extra weight. Time to move on. Today, the only way was down. The first 10km were all downhill on a wide gravel road. It was sunny with some big white clouds in the sky. Nothing special, except for the wind. It was blowing with an incredible force. I had problems to walk in a straight line. At moments, it felt like I could be blown of the ridge. Looking over my shoulder, I saw the mighty tower of the fortress standing tall. The first kilometers still offered stunning views over Monte Amiata and the rolling farmlands. Sheep dogs kept big groups of sheep together and barked loud to keep people like me at a distance. Half way the descent was an agriturismo which had installed a resting area for pilgrims. Really nice, but it was hard to do anything in the heavy wind. I sat down for 5min before continuing. The lower I got, the less views, the less wind and the more horseflies. These ferocious bugs fought a war with me. I could win most of the battles, but still got bitten a couple of times. Slowly, I reached civilization again. First a big farm, then a little hamlet. When I came back at the main road Via Cassia, I was in the village of Ponte a Rigo. Not more than a couple of houses, but there is a little church that serves as a pilgrim hostel. Around noon, it was completely locked so I had lunch at the picnic area just next to it. The next part of the hike was not something I was really looking forward to. Six harrowing kilometers along the busy and dangerous Via Cassia. I had looked into alternatives but they could not convince me. One option was to just take a taxi or bus. I had not walked so far to now take public transport and become a PTP, a public transport pilgrim. Then there was the alternative route through Proceno, but that added 8km and extra climbing to the day. No thank you! So the official route via the road it was. The first part was not too bad. There was a grassy path just next to the road which I could follow. Fields of hay and grain dominated the landscape. At one point, I passed a big farm which had made a rest area for pilgrims in one of their sheds next to a combine harvester. They sold coffee, water or a homemade spelt snack for 1 euro. The money could be left in an honesty box. Brilliant way of welcoming pilgrims. Later I switched sides on the Via Cassia and followed a little concrete road still in safety. Here I passed the hamlet Torricella. Not more than a farm and an agriturismo which only publicity was that they had wifi. When I came back to the road, I crossed the Torrente Elvella on a bridge. There was almost no water left, but still this was a special place. Here I left Tuscany and entered the province of Lazio. And what is the capital of Lazio? Indeed, Roma! Behind the bridge lays the hamlet of Centeno. They call themselves La Porta de Lazio. The village has no services and was so quiet that a dog slept on the road. The most remarkable thing happened here in 1633. Then Galileo Galilei was quarantined here for 3 weeks due to a plague in Tuscany. A commemorative plate reminds of this special time. I found a bench under a tree and gave my legs some rest for a while. Then it was time to face the trucks and cars. The next 4 kilometers were on the Via Cassia. I walked against traffic but it was still extremely dangerous. Speeding cars passed centimeters from me. At places there was a guardrail. Have you ever been trapped between a guardrail and a concrete mixer truck of which the driver is on the phone? It is just crazy that this is the official Via Francigena. I found it fascinating that every kilometer is still marked with an old milestone and a new sign. When old and new come together. Four kilometer later, I was happy to be alive. To allow pilgrims to recover from their nervous breakdown, there is a pilgrim bar when you get off the road. It is a funny place with all kinds of chairs. The distance to the north and the south pole is marked. I decided that I had deserved an icecream. The bar even stamped my passport. Then it was time for the last 3km and surprise, they were uphill. With the last energy of the day, I reached the entrance gate of Acquapendente. Next to the San Francesco church, there is a stunning mural of a man with big glasses. The Via Roma goes straight through town. For one reason or another, the old center couldn't charm me that much. Buildings were not as well maintained. I went straight to my B&B. It was a self check in and that went very smooth. My room was really modern and the walk in shower was heavenly. After 5 days of walking, I decided to pass by the self service laundry. While my clothes were having a good wash, I went for pizza. The Egyptian owner had a friend in Antwerp and knew the football team of Gent. Then it was time to sleep, because tomorrow another 23km to Bolsena and its lake awaits. Only 8 more walking days to Rome. I'm so excited. Over the last days, my shin started hurting. It is something I will have to monitor closely. But I keep going. Rome is so close I can almost see it.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
Categories |