Last night, I was really tired. I fell asleep while writing my blog. That's why I only posted it this morning.
Albergo Centrale in Viterbo is quite big and has 32 rooms. I slept like a rock until 7h30 in room 321. When somebody was coughing in another room, you could easily hear it. But that clearly didn't keep me awake. Breakfast was again included, so I went downstairs to enjoy my favourite meal of the day. I loved the big box of croissants. Somebody else had opened a yoghurt without eating it and I would quickly find out why. They were definitely out of date. Around 10h30, I gave my key to the cleaning lady and stepped outside in the streets of Viterbo. There was something going on around the church of Santa Rosa. In front stood a huge 30m high decorated white tower. Apparently, today was the last day of a yearly festival to honour Santa Rosa. Just one week ago on Sept 3rd was the highlight of the festival. Then the tower which weighs 4 ton is carried around the city by 100 facchini or strongmen. It happens at night. The tower is then swathed in light. Too bad I was one week late for the spectacle, but just seeing the tower was already impressive. The monastry had opened its doors. Even more incredible, there you can see the remains of Santa Rosa through the glass of her gilt coffin. This girl did at the age of 18 in the 13th century. Her skin looks leathery. There is also an exposition on the tower and how it got bigger and bigger through the years. In a cinema room, there was a video playing which showed the tower being carried through the streets. An adult man started crying while watching it. This event means a lot here. Check it out online, it is simply amazing. In the rest of the city, it was quiet on this Sunday morning. Viterbo has a nice medieval center with lots of little squares and fountains. Around one of these fountains, the stones were wet and I slipped. Luckily I didn't hurt myself. Imagine walking more than 1000km and then being knocked out by a fountain. After a walk around the city, I arrived at the piazza Duomo with its romanesque cathedral and its palazzo dei papi. Lots of popes stayed in this city throughout the centuries. A guide was showing a group of minimum 30 people around. I visited the cathedral, but didn't want to pay for the palazzo. Via a staircase under the palazzo, I headed for the Porta di Faul to exit the city. Just outside, there is a McDonalds. I admit, I made a quick stop. Then it was really time to go. But straight away, there was a choice to be made. The original route or a longer variant along some Etruscan graves. I wanted to stay on the original route, but because the signs were confusing, I ended up doing the variant. The first part goes through mysterious Etruscan cave roads. The roads have been cut into the stone over 2500 years ago. It is unclear why. Some run to a dept of 24m. It is pretty amazing to walk these roads with high walls of stone to your left and right. Extra advantage was the shade, because it was hot. The detour for the Etruscan graves was not worth it. There are metal constructions above the graves and they were locked so you couldn't see anything. Later I continued walking on a gravel road with trees on both sides. After a while, I passed under the highway to then walk along it for a couple of kilometers. Cars passing on my left, endless fields to my right with at the horizon some low mountains. After I went under the highway for a second time, it was time to climb. Just like yesterday, there was a hill to be scaled. The path went uphill smoothly through slopes with lots of olive trees. Looking over my shoulder far in the distance, I could see Montefiascone again where I was 2 days ago. At the top, there was a picnic table with a view. It was in full sunshine, but I took a break there. When I continued, I walked over the Via Cassia on a bridge. I could spot a sign saying 72. Only 72km to Rome via the road, I was getting so close. Today was a short stage of 16km, but it is still an effort. The last 7km were spent on an undulating path through olive trees. Some people have built big houses here. There are worse places to live. The sunset was around 19h30. My last kilometer was walked when it was almost dark. I arrived at Albergo Da Benedetta in Vetrella just after 20h. The owner Federico had asked to call when I arrived, so I did. Five minutes later, the friendly man showed up. The albergo is very cosy and does everything to make pilgrims feel at home. They even sell Via Francigena souvenirs. My room looks like it is part of a five star hotel. How is that possible for 40 euro breakfast included. To understand, you have to take a closer look. The power plug falls out of the wall, there is almost no warm water and the bed feels like sleeping on the ground. But for me it is just perfect. The advantage of being closer to Rome is that you have more shops with longer opening times. Vetralla has a Conad supermarket open until midnight. Another beautiful day comes to an end. My tibia did again great today. It looks like I managed to heal it while I continued walking. But I take it day by day. There are now only 4 days left. Tomorrow, I will have a look around Vetralla before walking 24km to Sutri. Tonight, I sleep at 95km from Rome.
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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