It was amazing to wake up in my tent for the first time on the Via Francigena. The temperature never went below 20 degrees, but the flysheet of my tent got really wet anyway. That wouldn't take long. As soon as the sun came above the mountains, it was burning hot. They predicted 35 degrees today. When I cleaned up my gear, some people came to have a look. A dutch lady said I was brave, but I'm sure she thought I was crazy. Time to go! Because it didn't look like there was going to be food available during the day, I decided to buy lunch in Aigle. The rue du bourg was still quiet. Some trucks were delivering, some old men enjoying their morning coffee. Fountains are a thing here. You find them literally everywhere. For fountain lovers, there is even a signposted walk along more than 20 fountains. Surprisingly, the road to Rome is not very well signposted here. There are yellow markers, but you have no idea for what walk they are. Back to the good old maps. There is actually only 10km between Aigle and St Maurice, but the Via Francigena takes hikers over two hills for more fun and views. Leaving modern Aigle behind, I entered a neighbourhood where it felt like I stepped back in time. Old houses, cobblestone streets and a stunning castle all surrounded by vineyards. Apparently, grapes grow very good on these mountainsides. The castle houses a wine museum, but I didn't have the time to visit. My first climb of the day was waiting for me. Luckily, a big part was in the forest away from the sun. I got lost half way the climb, but I found the path again just before the summit. The last stretch of the climb went through a forest with a big warning sign. The trees would be infested with processionary caterpillars. They can cause heavy allergic reactions so hikers were warned to stay on the path and to not stop. But what did they install on the summit? A picnic table. While coming down, a buzzard suddenly flew up. What an impressive bird! A bit later, I saw the village of Ollon deep behind me. It is beautifully hidden in a corner of the big Rhone valley against steep mountainsides full of vineyards. I might have mentionned it already, but it was hot. When I arrived in the village, I went straight for a bench under a tree next to the church. My body needed to cool down. There was nobody around in the village. Here as well, there were fountains everywhere, very refreshing. To my own surprise, the church was open. I enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere and the cool air. But there was still a second climb to do. When leaving the village, I was convinced I found the right way. I was on a path through the vineyards with stunning views over the valley. Lizards ran in all directions. At a certain moment, I realised this was going to easy and indeed, I was too low. Back from where I came? No way! I decided to climb up through the vineyards in the hope of finding the higher path. It was super steep and some workers must have wondered what I was doing. But I found the right way. I was soacking wet and by that time, I had already drunk 2l of water. But I was not there yet. A bit further, in the middle of the forest, I found the first sign 'via francigena'. What a moment! It gave me strenght. On top of that, the last part of the climb was decorated with beautiful wooden sculptures of animals. This stretch is called 'le sentier du pèlerin'. As from here, there were signs, not always clear, but they were there. The descent was steep through the vineyards in full sunshine. When I came down, I felt completely overheated. Somebody must have heard me, because just afterwards, I found a concrete shelter next to a bus stop. Heaven, I decided to take a 30min siesta. Birds had made a nest in the roof, so fascinating to watch them. By the time I came back to life, I felt like stepping into another world. The sky was completely overcast and rain was on its way. Not really a concern, I was so wet that rain wouldn't have made a difference. In the end, there was some thunder, some dripping, but that was it. Too bad, I was so ready to dance in the rain. The last 9km of this stage were flat, halleluja. First along a canal, later along the mighty fast flowing Rhone river. Except from some people cycling and some people walking their dog, I didn't meet anybody. But just like yesterday, only the walkway was quiet. The highway had a non stop flow of cars, the railway tracks saw trains passing every 10min, little planes were landing on the small airport of Bex and farmers were loading hay bales. Everybody seemed very busy and in a rush while I was slowly making my way through all this chaos. Along the river, two municipal workers had hide their jeep in the bush and were playing on their phones. Looked like they were waiting for their long working day to end. Where the valley in Aigle is wide, it narrows dramatically when you approach St Maurice. And then the castle comes into sight. There is an exposition inside, not about something medieval, but about the smurfs. A bit further lays the abbaye, my stop for the night. There have been monks here since the year 515, pretty incredible. I arrived just after 18h. Reception was closed, but there was a sign 'accueil pelerin 70m'. The abbaye is huge and there was nobody around. After 15min, I found a door with a bell but nobody answered. What to do? I had a confirmed reservation. I waited and suddenly everybody was coming out of the basilica. Even the receptionist had to go to the mass. The friendly man gave me a key to one of the eight rooms. It was quiet. There was only one other pilgrim, Juan Carlos from Madrid. He started in Lausanne and had 2 weeks to make it to Milan. The rooms were clean and even had a chair and a desk. There was even a kitchen, but I decided to go for pizza in town. I ordered two drinks, because I was so thirsty. I calculated that I must have drunk 4 liters today. I also have my first blister, probably from all the going up and down. When I came back to my room, a big thunderstorm started but I would even sleep through a huricane. Tomorrow morning the monks invited me to mass at 7h and I can also join them at breakfast at 7h50. An amazing opportunity! So just like the monks, I'm going to bed extra early.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
Categories |