When I woke up in our air b&b in Pontremoli, I had a bit of a shock. The bedroom was empty. Did I oversleep? Luckily not! Cindy was the first one up and Charlotte was sleeping on the couch because she had too warm in the bedroom. Sadly, it was time to say goodbye. I will miss my amazing walking buddies. Cindy made breakfast and Charlotte had folded my clothes. What a great goodbye present. The girls had to catch an early train. Around 7h15, we gave each other a hug and off they went. The apartment suddenly felt really empty. I took the time to pack my backpack and then it was time for me to hit the road.
Today, I had 32km to walk with still more than 1500 altimeters. Surprisingly, it was not too warm when I started. Via the road, it would only take 22km to reach Aulla, but we all know it's not nice and dangerous. So the Via Francigena tries to avoid the road as much as possible. First on the left via the ancient suburb Santissima Annunziata, then on the right via a couple of ugly warehouses. The third time I left the highway, it was to reach the village of Ponticello. This is a partly restored medieval village and it looks like it comes straight out of a movie. There also is an annual medieval festival here, but that was last week. Today, there was only rubbish collection day. The church was open and has a small dome. I continued on a grassy path under the trees. Suddenly, I saw a lot of movement in the grass. A big snake was trying to catch a mouse. I disturbed the whole hunt, the mouse got away and the snake made an angry move towards me. It all happened in a matter of seconds. I jumped to the side and the snake calmed down. I even had the chance to take a picture, but this was a scary experience I will remember for a long time. The path followed the valley of the Magra river. Walking flat in the shade of the trees, I made good progress. Around 11h, I already arrived in Filattiera. There is a medieval church here mainly built with stones from the river. Very impressive! I took a first break on a bench next to the church. But there was still a long way to go. There is also Filattiera alto, an old village on a steep hill. The climb was not too long, but it made me sweat anyway. By now, it was above 35 degrees in the shade and no clouds were coming. At the old entrance gate, an old man started talking to me. He spends the summers here, the winters in Milano. He showed me a small hole in the old defence wall. Through the hole, you could see the valley. I felt like a medieval knight on the lookout. The path continued through the forest and after a very steep climb, I arrived in Filetto. Under the porch of the church, I had lunch. By now, my water bag was empty and I still had to walk 15km. As if they knew, there was a water dispenser on the square. Only 5 eurocents for 1l of cool water. This saved my life. Filetto is another well preserved medieval village. On this hot saterday afternoon, there was nobody to be seen on the cobblestone streets. Only 2km further, Virgoletta, another medieval village. This one still looks like a castle on the hill. By now, I had already walked more than 20km, but the toughest part was yet to come: Monte Alin. With 282m, this is not Mount Everest but the climb was still hard work. For kilometers, I would stay in the forest. Because of the trees, there was not even a view at the top. But there was a nice rest area in a field full of wild flowers. After a break around 18h, it was time to start the descent into Aulla. No idea where they suddenly came from, but it seemed like all the mosquitos of the forest had signed an agreement to annoy me as much as possible. Even with insect repellent, they kept coming. I tried to ignore them and enjoyed the forest as much as possible. I saw two bees fighting, a squirrel in a tree and another little snake on the path. Stages of more than 30km always feel too long in the end and this one did too. By the time I arrived in Terrarossa with its imposing castle, I was tired. But I was in time for the supermarket. At the checkout counter, a lady was saying how hot it was. According to her, it was impossible to do something outside. Well, I proved her wrong. From here, a cycle path next to the main road takes you over the river into the city. Aulla didn't make a good first impression. Lots of sad apartment blocks, factories and crazy drivers. A lady stopped to let me cross the road, the car from behind simply overtook while I was crossing. He could have easily killed me. I went straight to the safety of my B&B where I arrived around 20h30. It's called bed and bike. But you don't have a bike, I hear you think. Yes, but the name comes from the bicycle shop on the ground floor. Elizabetta gave me a warm welcome. She couldn't speak english, but I start to understand some Italian. My room was a bit more expensive than usual, but very luxurious inclusive relax chair, rain shower and airco. Little present to myself. My legs are a bit irritated because of all the sweating. I will have to keep an eye on that. Tomorrow, there is only 17km to walk. It won't be easy because there is a mountain to conquer. This is described as the last mountainous stage of the Via Francigena. Tomorrow, I might see the mediterranean sea for the first time on my journey. Another milestone!
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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