I did it! I have reached the summit of the Col du Grand St Bernard on foot. What a climb! Tonight I sleep at 2473m. This morning, I woke up in Bourg St Pierre at 1637m. The man who came in late yesterday evening left as expected very early without paying. I had breakfast with Tjamke and Marie-Aude. We decided to all walk alone today at our own pace. The sun was out and the col was clear. When I left, two old ladies were enjoying their morning coffee on a bench next to the church. They wished me good luck. The guidebook was clear over this stage: walk 12km steap uphill to the summit. Surprisingly, the day started with a short descent to the river, but afterwards it was time to climb. The valley was narrow with the path on the right, the river in the middle and the road on the left. Quickly, a huge dam comes in sight. It holds 20 million cubic metres of water. Once at the top of the dam, a big mountain lake surrounded by high peaks reveals its beauty. There is a parking and even a little summer bar here. The perfect spot for my first break. Afterwards, the path goes up and down entirely around the lake. At the far end of the lake, most traffic disappears into a tunnel. The road to drive over the col is open only from June to October. It's popular on sunny Sundays like today. So sadly cars and electricity lines remained visible in this mountain wonderland. But the landscape is so impressive and wide that they don't really disturb. A steep climb brought me to La Pierre at more than 2000m. There is an active farm here. And that means cows on the path. They were a bit restless so I decided to go in a wide circle around them. Mothers protect their calves and can be dangerous. When I came to a wooden bridge over the river, I took a second break. There was only 4km left to do, but I still had to go almost 500m higher. After crossing the road, the steep climb next to Torrent de Cholère tested me again. Once up there, I arrived in high mountain terrain. Flowers were everywhere, little waterfalls came down from the side and there was even some snow left. At 1km of the top, there is a rescue shelter named after Lucien Droz, a man who died here in 1951. I decided to sit down here for a while. My legs were burning. And the last km is the steepest. It was a struggle. At 500m from the top, you see the hospice but it still takes easily 20min. Obce at the top, an undescribable feeling. Suddenly, I was surrounded by lots of tourists who drove up here. But that didn't bother. I made it and I was so happy. The world famous hospice is at the highest point and still in Switzerland. Even when the road closes in winter, it stays open. It's next to a stunning Alpine lake, the other side of the lake is Italy. I checked in and found that my dorm had only one of the eight beds taken. So I got to choose the best one. After an incredible shower, I went for a drink with Tjamke while the sun slowly disappeared behind the mountains. At 19h15, it was time for dinner. No free seating here, a sign on every table said who had to sit there. My name was a bit too complicated. They wrote Lassens. I ended up with a couple from Boston who was walking a part of the Via Francigena, two German guys who did the tour du grand comblin and two French ladies who did more by bus/taxi than on foot but they loved it. I had the best meal in a long time in such a good company. At 21h, a lot of people went to the underground crypte for a last gathering before bedtime. Afterwards, I went quickly outside to marvel one last time at so much beauty. It was cold with a freezing wind but that didn't matter. This pass was opened by the Romans, Napoleon passed here with 40.000 man and on this day, I walked up here. The pass is situated just between Mont Blanc and Grand Combin. Going back inside, I was so excited and tired at the same time. I made it up and I'm 1000km from Rome. Tomorrow going down and weather will take a turn for the worst. On Tuesday night, it may possibly snow on the pass. We will see tomorrow, first sleep!
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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