Pensione Italia exists since 1940 in Bolsena and it is still up and running. I slept very well. My mattress in room 4 was one of the best I had on this trip. When I opened the window, I could see the tower of the castle above the city. The interior of my room was somehow bizarre. The paintings of boats on a lake above the bed didn't really match with the statues of half naked women on the cupboard. I had breakfast on the rooftop terrace. It was all soaking wet because someone had just watered the plants. But what a view! On my way down, I bumped into caretaker Nick. He had to go, but I could give the key to his wife in room 1. It looked like they used more rooms for themselves than they rented rooms out.
Around 10h, I closed the front door and walked the corso cavour to the main square. In the tourist office, I scored a new stamp in my passport. The Via Francigena didn't go to the shore of the lake, but I didn't want to miss it. A nice boulevard lined with trees takes you to the crystal clear water of the lake. It was quiet on the little beach next to the harbour. Some ducks passed in front of me while I enjoyed the peace and quiet. Just some low hills can be seen around the lake, no ugly big buildings. I decided to stay a bit longer and ordered coffee with a croissant on a terrace overlooking the water. Two Dutch couples were debating if it was too early to start drinking wine. They decided it was and went for coca cola. My tibia felt a bit better today. I'm still hopefull that I will be able to walk and enjoy my last days. Thank you Ibuprofen! Around noon, I walked back to town and quickly visited the church of Santa Cristina. In 1263, a miracle took place here when during a mass the bread of the eucharist started dripping blood on a priest who had doubts about his faith. True or not, the linen cloth with blood stains can still be found in the cathedral of Orvieto. Time to start my mission of the day: 16km to the southend of the lake where the hilltop village of Montefiascone and a last rest day were waiting for me. I walked through a last gate and some old men showed me the way uphill. Quickly I left most houses behind and I followed a gravel road high above the lake. Here some people built big villas with stunning views. Others kept it more basic and lived in a little caravan with a hammock next to it. They didn't have as much money, but they had the same priceless view. Olive trees and big cactusses filled the slopes. Later the path disappeared into the forest. Countless little flies started circling my head and body. They went in my mounth, my nose and even in my eyes behind my sunglasses. What a pain! I waved with my hands regularly punching myself in the face by accident. These bugs can easily drive you crazy. The trick is to ignore them, but that's easier said than done. Taking a break in the forest was still too complicated with the flies, so I sat down on a little concrete wall for a while after I had reached the road again. Then I entered the Turano park. Traces of life have been found here that go back as early as 9th century BC. Not much can be seen of it now, as everything was moved to musea. There is a huge picnic area and the cute Madonna di Turano chapel. From here the path continued to undulate, more up than down. I passed a little waterfall hidden behind the trees. A bit further, I crossed a bridge over a creek. That is where I entered Montefiascone. The town is at an altitude of 602m so there was more uphill to do. First through the forest, then on a wide white gravel road through the vineyards. Montefiascone is home to the famous Est! Est! Est! wine. When I reached the summit, I found a nice bench under a tree overlooking the lake. Perfect for a nice break. After 30min, I continued on the gravel road. On my left, I could already spot the dome of the basilica of Montefiascone, one of the largest in Italy. In a meanwhile, more and more houses appeared. I was getting closer. For 1km, the path ran along the busy Via Cassia. But this time, pilgrims could walk safely behind a guardrail. And when a crossing of the road was necessary, there were so many signs that even a blind driver would see them. After a last steep climb, I came to a stunning panorama over the lake. To my right the lake with a little island and the sun already setting. To my left, the hilltop village of Montefiascone overlooking the lake. Walking into town is not spectacular. You walk along busy roads lined with houses, shops and factories. The church of Corpus Domini is special. Not because of the church, but because of the marker in front: 100km to Rome. There is even a stamp for your passport. But actually, it is true and not true. If you would follow the Via Cassia, it is 100km to Rome. If you walk the Via Francigena, it is still 130km. A bit further, there was a eurospin supermarket where I bought food. Then I continued along the Via Cassia to my hostel for the next 2 nights. It was not even 20h, but already dark. La Bertina was easy to find and the friendly owner lives in the building. She only speaks Italian and talks a lot. When you tell her that you didn't understand something, she repeats it in Italian but slower. The room was nice. I even had a rainshower. For more than an hour and a half, I spoke to my sweetheart Caat. We will see each other again in less than a week. Exciting! My bed was not the most comfortable, but it will do. My tibia did great today which makes me happy. The inflammation stays, but I really hope my legs will carry me to Rome. The pilgrim path wants to teach me a final lesson. That's how life goes sometimes. All goes well and suddenly it gets harder. It makes you tougher and it learns you to appreciate the good times even more. Take nothing for granted. Health is the most important thing in life. Things can be replaced, but you only have one body. Tomorrow is my last rest day. I will prepare my arrival in Rome where I will see so many of my family and friends again. I can't wait! As from Saterday, I will start my 6 last walking days to Rome. Fingers crossed for a beautiful ending to this unforgettable adventure.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
Categories |