Throughout the night, it stayed 24 degrees in my room under the roof, but that didn't keep me awake. I slept like a rock. This morning, my legs still felt a bit tired so I decided not to rush. Rushing is the biggest mistake you can make during a pilgrimage. Every day is about the journey, not the destination. Around 8h30, Egidio came in to make breakfast. He had been to the bakery shop in town and even bought me a local specialty that I could take on my hike today: tiles of Chatillon. Really delicious cookies. Some people run pilgrim accommodation only for money, not Egidio. He does it with heart and soul. We talked while I enjoyed breakfast with a view on the nearby castle. Berlusconi voted a law years ago which had made it possible that he could extend his house with this B&B. He was not a Berlusconi fan, but not everything the man did was bad. The biggest threat to all hamlets in the Aosta valley is rockfall. That is why some many got abandoned. Edigio told the story of a woman hiding behind a wall during a big rockslide. When she thought it was over, she looked over the wall and her head was crushed by the next rock.
Around 10h30, it was really time to go. I left a note in the guestbook of Egidio and gave him a big warm handshake. He had one request. If I could send him a postcard from Rome. Egidio, promised, you can count on that! Today was again a big day, 18km with 900m climbing and 800m descent. First thing to do, was to walk to the center of Chatillon. The narrow streets in the center were quiet and 20min later, I stood at the church which overlooks the valley. In the church, there were pictures of all villagers who had passed away this year. From the church, you could clearly see that the Aosta valley turned here to the south. That was were I was going. And what a surprise, the path went steep uphill. Some high clouds blocked the sun which made that it was no too hot. But by the time I finished the climb, I was sweating anyway. After that, the path stays high on the mountainside for a couple of kilometers. Views over the valley are stunning! A big dog almost gave me a heart attack. He came straight for me but was luckily pulled back by a chain. For a second, I feared my life. After 5km I made it to Saint-Vincent. This village is so tucked away in a corner of the valley that it enjoys a microclimat. Houses are bigger here with girls sunbathing on their terrace. When I passed, there was no sun, but they were still sunbathing. Saint-Vincent is also home to a posh thermal complex. I have to say, it was tempting. But I still had a long way to go. So after a little break, I continued. First I had to follow a quiet road. And then you need to be careful. There are not a lot of cars around, but those who pass drive like their wife needs to give birth. And up the hill it went again until I reached the hamlet of Chenal. A very picturesque place with a castle ruin on a hill and a tiny church. An old man just took a bucket of water from the fountain. These places always give me the feeling of stepping back in time. Two man were enjoying life in their hammocks while listening to highway to hell. A bit further, a higher hill with on the top a bigger ruin: the castle of St Germain. It was strategically built on a rocky outcrop next to a narrow gorge to control the Aosta valley. Once I got behind the rocky outcrop, I was surprised. The valley suddenly got much wider and there is the town of Montjovet. Two worlds come together here. High on the mountainside, there are still the old stone houses packed together around some narrow streets. Closer to the valley floor, the modern houses with driveways and cars. The closer you get to the valley floor, the more you hear the endless noise of cars and trucks on the highway. I wouldn't want to live there. I took a break next to the church where I could look back towards the valley. A red and a blue team were playing a football game on a pitch next to the Dora river. Nobody scored while I was watching. Above the higher peaks, dark clouds packed together but it didn't look like they were coming my way. Time for the last stretch of the day. And that involved two tough climbs and descents to reach the city of Verrès. Most of these were in the forest on narrow paths. I was sweating hard, ran out of water and struggled to keep the bugs away. But I didn't mind, I was walking in a magical valley. I passed another abandoned hamlet. I wonder how many there would be here, but defintely a lot. A bit further the hamlet of Reclou. There some people had clearly bought some old houses to renovate them. The streets were too narrow and steep for cars. In stead of parking spots, there were plants and flowers in the streets. Perfect for a life a bit hidden from the hustle and bustle on the valley floor. And then a magical moment, I reached a final summit and saw below the city of Verrès. A steep downhill and a walk along the busy main road brought me to the center. This was clearly a bigger city with supermarkets, fuel stations and factories. A castle is here also overlooking the city. My hostel for the night was between the highway and the railroad next to the station. A bit of a deprived neighbourhood and I couldn't find the building. I turned around a bit and then suddenly saw where I had to be. There was a big gate telling me this was not the safest place in the area. But the mother and daughter running the hostel were amazing. The offered straight away to cook for me, three courses drinks included for 20 euro. My dorm room had 4 beds, but I would have only 1 roommate tonight. My shower was too hot but so nice. Il Casello gave me a nice evening. This is the place to be in Verrès for pilgrims but I didn't meet any. Families with children checked in together with people who stayed here for work. When a train passes, the building shakes. I sat next to an open window for a while. It was a beautiful evening. And looking to the south, I saw a gap in the mountains. An escape from the mountains and that's were I'm heading tomorrow. Looking for my way out of the Aosta valley and onto flatter ground. They predict thunderstorms in the afternoon which I will have to monitor, but I'm not from sugar, so I'm not going to melt in a bit of water.
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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