Around 5h this morning, somebody in the building thought it was a good idea to watch a movie with maximum sound. Luckily I had my earplugs. When I woke up around 7h30, it was quiet. Too quiet! I would have loved to had some other pilgrims in the hostel. But it was just me. At the wall, a picture of a corn field. Why? In the guestbook, only ten comments had been written in the last two weeks. Three of these pilgrims, I had met before. It doesn't seem very busy on the Via Francigena. I enjoyed the luxury of this place while using the espresso machine in the kitchen. But then it was time to go.
On the main square in Garlasco, you have the municipio on one side and the big church on the other. In the last one, they asked 4 euro to light a candle. God also struggles with inflation. I walked into Garlasco from one side and via the same street, I walked out of Garlasco on the other side. The first six kilometers were mainly along a big irrigation channel, the canale cavour. I love walking along water. The clear water was ideal to spot fish, no muskrat this time. The sandy path was sometimes covered in seashells. Where did they come from? The sky was blue, the sun was shining, but the moon was also still visible. The busiest persons this morning were farmers. They were throwing dung on the field. The smell was often really bad. The first thing I saw entering Gropello Cairoli was the cemetary. Here they had a huge underground columbarium, very impressive. The drawing of a child for her deceased father will stick in my mind. Don't forget to live life to the fullest, to also live for people who can't anymore. The village had some nice colourful houses and gave a southern feeling. I had lunch in a park and later visited the church. A dutch family with 2 teenage daughters was walking through the main street wondering where the hell they had ended up. The village has a second church with a pink façade. After having passed the highway, I ended up in the rice fields. It was 5km to the next village Villanova d'Ardenghi. Big farms called cascinas are the only buildings I passed in between. The village was situated on a little hill. To get there I had to climb. That felt like ages ago. The only thing open in the village was the church, so I took a peaceful cool break in there. From here, it was still 13km to Pavia. Leaving the village, I spotted a speed camera. I would soon find out why. People use these backroads as shortcuts and drive like crazy. This afternoon, little flies starting circling around my head getting into my nose, mouth and ears. The best way to deal with them, is to ignore them. The concrete road continued atop a dyke. Farmland on one side, floodplains of the Ticino river on the other. And it didn't take long before I got to see the river. A blue line with lots of bends searching its way. My guidebook suggested to stay on the dyke until Pavia, but I disagree. The official Via Francigena takes a path much closer to the river under the trees, better views and more shade. To make things even better, there was a bar next to the river. The lady at the bar did her best to be as unfriendly as possible and she was really good at it. For a while, I watched the boats and canoes pass by. But there were 7 more km to walk. And due to the heat and the bugs, I have found them tough. Luckily the river kept me company together with the wildlife. Because I walk alone in silence, it is incredible how much animals I see. Lots of rabbits but also deer. After having passed the highway and the railway, Pavia came into view. The cathedral has the third largest dome in Italy and you see it from far. I entered the city via de Ponte Coperto, an old covered bridge over the Ticino river. Tonight, I sleep in a cosy B&B in the center. I had received instructions to open a key box, because there is no reception. After a good shower, I went for dinner and an evening walk. The old narrow streets of Pavia are mainly for pedestrians and are packed with lots of shops, restaurants and bars. There is a big university here so lots of students around. After dark, there is little light which adds to the cosy atmosphere. The dome of the cathedral stayed completely dark. I could stay here a bit longer, but Rome is calling. In the next three days, I have to walk 70km to Piacenza. That stretch is a bit of a no man's land. I couldn't get any accommodation confirmed, so I will have to walk and see. I'm definitely in for an adventure!
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AuthorMy name is Dimitri and I'm turning 40 in 2023. Through the years, I have tried to live my dreams. Everything is possible, the sky is the limit as long as you believe in your dreams and work hard to make them happen. Do what you never did before. Go where you have never been before. It will be scary, but it will also be worth it! Archives
July 2024
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